Cothay Manor Medieval House & Gardens In Somerset

Cothay Manor Medieval House & Gardens In Somerset

Cothay Manor Medieval House & Gardens In Somerset

We seemed to be driving forever down single track lanes with high hedges on either side, but we had been warned that one mile might feel more like ten. Then there it was tucked away on the border between Somerset and Devon; a fairy tale semi-moated house with ducks floating on the lake in the front. Just like the sleeping beauty when the veil has been lifted and all is revealed.
Cothay Manor is an absolutely magical place regardless of whether you are visiting the garden or taking advantage of being one of the very first to stay in what must be one of the country’s most spectacular B&Bs. We just knew it was going to be one of life’s most treasured memories.
To appreciate a true work of art, be it a house, painting or wine, it is not necessary to have a particular interest in those fields. At Cothay Manor surely everyone who roams through the numerous elements of these extensive gardens, over twelve acres, cannot but be absorbed and smitten. It maybe the eclectic mix colours; the clever landscaping that leads the eye on to other areas, or the relationship of the garden to the house built in 1480 and water features. The garden is acknowledged to be not only one of the most romantic but also one of the very best in the UK. It is remarkable that the lady of the house; the recently widowed Mary-Ann Robb took on the house some 25 years ago as a retirement project, she is assisted by one full time gardener and two part-timers.
The Manor is large by today’s standards, but is nevertheless not as enormous as it first appears as mostly it is only one room deep. If you are visiting the gardens, the first sight of the mellow house is across a large pool/lake which sets off the fortified gate house superbly, there is just a glimpse into the intimate courtyard leading to the front door. No wonder, it is given 5* in Simon Jenkins’ acclaimed "England’s Thousand Best Houses."
As you will have gathered, staying over is obviously going to be a new experience. Whilst I am sure the website will be less of a treasure hunt to find the B&B details shortly (see: ‘Latest News’), it sets the tone that this is one lady’s new and very personal project. First and foremost, it is a home with collections of all sorts created over many years by knowledgeable enthusiasts.
Whilst the possessions are very largely antiques (protected by a discreet, up-to-date security system) the combined ages of which would be counted in hundreds of thousands of years. There are some later additions including an attractive pre-Raphaelite portrait and a collection of letters penned by notable figures.
It transpired that Mary-Anne not only collects but is an active dealer with a great depth and spread of knowledge. A very striking wedding photograph of her; tall and elegant in a stunning Dior dress added to her comment that she was ‘in the rag trade’ at some point, i.e. worked for Dior and may well have been modelling (?). Her air is very modest and casual often dismissing a charming, fine antique as just another bit of the furnishings and, as she has so many interests, conversation flowed freely. We started out with tea and biscuits in the ’Great Hall’ and later had a wonderful evening sitting in the delightful kitchen chatting over a glass of champagne with Mary Ann and her three dogs, two ‘inherited’ from her children.
We slept in the first floor ‘Great Chamber’ where the walls have been painted with a frieze completing, that started many years ago, by Mary-Anne’s daughter. Whilst we slumbered we were watched over by the newly restored wall paintings of the original owner, Mr. Bluett, and a religious painting all created when the house was built in 1480.
There is a tiny Oratory attached to the bedroom which overlooks the front path of the house. This was the scene of the christening of two of the Robbs’ grandchildren. We surely must have slept in the only suite (‘The Guest Chamber’) anywhere with both an Oratory and a 15th century wall painting of the Annunciation. However, rest assured there is a brand new bathroom complete with a shower connected to the room.
Breakfast was served in the dining room and set a standard that others would be proud to achieve. We were then let loose to wander through the garden at our own pace and in complete solitude. The garden, which in actual fact is a series of ‘garden rooms’ opening off a large yew walk, were a riot of colour with some of the most beautiful roses we have ever seen cascading down in front of the house’s stone walls. What an extraordinary privilege to be left to explore this beautiful and serene place without another soul in sight. Sissinghurst eat your heart out.
If you are ever down in Cothay Manor’s neck of the woods, it really is worth making the time to visit the gardens and if you are lucky enough to stay in the Manor you will, like us, have an experience to treasure always. But please remember, Cothay Manor is not a museum but a home. In Mary-Anne’s bedroom there is a cushion embroidered with the words ‘Happiness is being loved by a Pekinese’ which very much reflects her love and affection for her dogs. They together with her house and garden have been a life-times work.
www.cothaymanor.co.uk