Bovey Castle - Timeless Grandeur and Unrivalled Luxury

Bovey Castle boasts a rich and fascinating history, one that elegantly interweaves a celebrated British retail dynasty, W.H. Smith, with the golden age of railway travel and vital service during two World Wars. Originally conceived as a private country bolthole, it has blossomed into one of the UK's most prominent luxury hotels.

The tale begins in 1890 when William Henry Smith (son of the company's founder) acquired some 5,000 acres of land from the Earl of Devon. The resulting stately pile, completed in 1907, was designed by Detmar Blow in a lavish Neo-Jacobean style, serving as a magnificent country seat for the family. Constructed from local Dartmoor granite, with exquisite decorative stonework dressings of Bath stone and Darley Dale stone, the architecture effortlessly incorporates elements of the English Renaissance: symmetrical and picturesque façades, mullioned and transomed windows, battlements, and towers. It is, quite simply, a stunning and imposing edifice.

During the Great War, the family graciously offered the house as a convalescent home for officers. In 1928, the estate was sold to the Great Western Railway (GWR) to settle death duties, who recognised the potential for a glamorous golfing hotel, strategically designed to draw affluent travellers to the South West via their burgeoning rail network. It opened as the Manor House Hotel in 1930, featuring a championship golf course laid out by J.F. Abercromby, a celebrated architect of the 'Golden Age' of course design.

In World War II, the hotel was requisitioned and operated as a military hospital, returning to its intended function in 1946. Following the nationalisation of the railways in 1948, the hotel became a key component of the British Transport Hotels group, remaining under their stewardship for several decades.

The hotel was privatised in the early 1980s and changed hands several times before its major rebranding. Notably, Peter de Savary took ownership in 2003, followed in 2014 by the Eden Hotel Collection, which embarked on a multi-million-pound refurbishment project to restore the original 20th-century glamour.

The Journey to Dartmoor

As a Devon native, the county holds a particular and comforting familiarity for me. 

Our specific itinerary took us towards Exeter, then onto the northern periphery of Dartmoor, towards Moretonhampstead. The final stage of our journey wound through the narrow, twisting lanes of north Dartmoor, culminating at our destination: Bovey Castle.

Dartmoor in winter is a place of profound beauty, dramatic weather, and deep atmosphere. It offers a stark, rugged experience that provides a distinct contrast to the gentle greens of the summer months.

Bovey Castle is perfectly nestled in the undulating valleys of Dartmoor National Park. We arrived at the Neo-Jacobean/Elizabethan-style mansion via the noble archway and into the quadrangular courtyard. The archway serves as a majestic gateway, ushering guests and their vehicles from the drive into the courtyard, sweeping around the fountain, and reaching the main entrance porch. Here, you are met with valet parking and attentive staff ready to assist with luggage.

The reception has been designed to evoke the impressive yet welcoming entrance hall of a private, historic country estate. It features a sense of opulence, tempered with a relaxing, unpretentious warmth. The high ceilings and rich architectural detailing are original features, inherited from the 1908 Neo-Jacobean build. The English Oak wood panelling that features throughout the main hall area is exquisite, the finest I have seen, and is a magnificent original characteristic. The décor is typically luxurious and traditional, employing elegant furnishings, deep colour palettes, and soft lighting to cultivate a refined ambience. It is both elegant and beautiful.

Our Stay: The State Rooms

Once checked in, we were escorted to our State room. These rooms are individually designed and decorated to complement the castle's historic charm, featuring a stylish blend of plush modern fittings and traditional furnishings. A State room is an extensive, open-plan, elegant, and individually styled luxury suite, perfectly suited for a romantic indulgence or a spacious family stay.

The dominant feature of our room was the huge leaded window, set within a bay, offering breathtaking views across the golf course, out over the valley, the hotel gardens, and Dartmoor National Park.

State rooms are generous suites, typically around 52 sq m or 559 sq ft, although each is unique, so sizes vary. They include a modern en suite bathroom; ours featured a separate walk-in shower and a spacious bath. Grand State rooms offer an even more luxurious en suite, invariably featuring a roll-top bath.

Waking up in the super king-size bed, enveloped in Egyptian cotton sheets, we were greeted by a beautiful winter sunrise, which flooded the room with golden sunlight before the famous Dartmoor weather inevitably took hold.

Sitting at our breakfast table, bathed in the morning sun and looking out through the impressive leaded window at the magnificent grounds and surrounding countryside, was a perfect start to the day.

State rooms offer vistas of the beautiful Dartmoor Valley, the golf course, or the castle grounds. Grand State rooms often boast the most spectacular and uninterrupted views across the Dartmoor countryside, with some even benefiting from a private decked balcony.

State rooms also feature super king-size or twin beds with Egyptian cotton sheets and premium bedding, only surpassed by the Grand State rooms, which frequently offer a four-poster bed option upon request. Bovey Castle is a dog-friendly hotel, with State rooms allowing for up to two dogs.

All guests are afforded access to the hotel’s superb indoor swimming pool, whirlpool, sauna, steam room, and gym, which features a full complement of Precor cardiovascular and strength equipment.

Golfing Heaven

For the keen golfer, this is truly heaven. The course here was designed in 1926 by the celebrated British golf course architect, J. F. Abercromby, and opened for play in 1930. It was specifically intended to challenge its sister courses at Gleneagles and Turnberry.

The Front Nine (River Valley) are scenic but treacherous, dominated by the River Bovey, which meanders throughout the course and comes into play on seven of the first eight holes, demanding both precision and nerve. The signature hole is the 7th, often cited as one of the best holes in Britain—a challenging par-4 where the river runs dangerously along the right-hand side, demanding a courageous tee shot.

The Back Nine (Parkland/Moorland) follow after the turn, where the course climbs out of the valley. These holes are more open, offering a classic parkland feel with sweeping views over the moors. Whilst water is less of a factor here, the challenge shifts to navigating the undulating terrain and strategic bunkering.

Complementing the championship course is a newly refurbished and extensively stocked golf shop and a fully equipped clubhouse, a driving range, and a short-game practice area.

Culinary Excellence: Dining at Bovey

Dining at Bovey Castle is a real treat, with two distinct restaurants to choose from, each with its own personality: Smith's Brasserie (1 AA Rosette) and The Great Western Grill (3 AA Rosettes).

Smith’s Brasserie is the more informal, relaxed dining option. The menu is diverse, offering freshly prepared dishes throughout the day, including a mix of Mediterranean-inspired choices, light bites, and classic comfort food. The atmosphere is informal and relaxing, making it ideal for everything from coffee and pastries to a sophisticated evening meal, and it is generally considered the better option for families with younger children (under-5s). It also features a terrace for enjoying the spectacular views.

The Great Western Grill is the hotel's fine dining restaurant, recently reopened after a major refurbishment. The restaurant focuses on modern British cuisine, utilising local and seasonal ingredients from Devon's land and sea, including local game, Exmoor beef, and superb seafood from the coves of Devon and Cornwall. The Executive Head Chef is Mark Budd, who has worked as a Head Chef at some of the world's finest hotel restaurants and has even cooked for the Royal Family.

The atmosphere at the Great Western Grill is described as upscale, formal, and classy, beautifully recalling the glamour of its Art Deco origins. It features a grand setting with chandeliers, crisp white tablecloths, and a sophisticated vibe, sometimes with a live piano player on weekend evenings. The menu is à la carte and includes traditional favourites with a modern twist, alongside exceptional grills and steaks.

Our personal dining experience centred around the Christmas taster menu and was a fantastic occasion, a combination of exquisite food, superbly prepared and presented, perfectly complemented by the professional and courteous staff. It was a special and memorable experience for all the right reasons.

Impeccable Service and Acclaim

Bovey Castle is truly second to none. Throughout our stay, the staff were impeccable, from the valet parking team and reception, to Ben Stevens, the front-of-house manager, who kindly gave us a tour. Bar staff, waiting staff, in fact, every member of staff we came into contact with, were a credit to the hotel.

They possess an impressive and richly deserved collection of awards:

• 5 AA Red Stars for the hotel.
• 3 AA Rosettes for The Great Western Restaurant.
• 1 AA Rosette for Smith's Brasserie.
• Devon Tourism Award - Gold Award Large Hotel of the Year 2025-26.
• Devon Tourism Award - Bronze Award Wedding Venue of the Year 2025-26.
• AA Small Hotel Group - AA Small Hotel Group of the Year 2024-25 

plus a host of other accolades, garnered over years of sustained excellence.

If you are seeking a beautiful, luxurious break in a multi-award-winning hotel in Devon, Bovey Castle should undoubtedly be at the very top of your list.