Club Med Alpe D'Huez: Climbing The 21 Virages At Alpe D’Huez With Ed Clancy OBE During The Tour De France

Club Med Alpe d’Huez is a luxury all-inclusive resort nestled in the enchanting Savoie ski area, ideal for every type of ski holiday. Guests can relish ski-in ski-out access to an expansive 250km ski domain or embark on an exhilarating dog sledging adventure. They can bask in the breathtaking views from the resort's sunlit balconies or indulge in some lively après-ski in the elegant lobby bar.

Only, that's in winter, in summer, it is even more amazing. 

I had the privilege of being invited to spend a residency with the illustrious Ed Clancy OBE, a three-time Olympic champion and six-time world champion cyclist, in July. Together, we embarked on a series of exhilarating bike rides through the majestic Savoie mountains, culminating in the iconic ascent of the 21 bends of Alpe d'Huez.

Throughout this exhilarating journey, we were hosted at the luxurious Club Med Alpe d'Huez resort. This stunning retreat offered a spacious terrace and a tranquil 18-metre pool, both overlooking the verdant pastures of the picturesque Oisans. The resort’s incredible cuisine, all-inclusive bar, and an array of thrilling activities ensured that even the most adventurous souls were captivated and entertained throughout the entire week.

Ed Clancy, the pedal-pushing powerhouse, has a trophy cabinet more stuffed than a cyclist's spandex! As the most successful Team Pursuit cyclist in history, he’s won gold with Team GB at three successive Olympics. By 2021, he was in his sixteenth year with Team GB and competed in his fourth Olympic Games in Tokyo. With three Olympic golds and six world titles to his name, he’s a cycling superhero—oh, and let's not forget his side gig as a cycling academy director!

For the uninitiated, the Alpe d’Huez is a legendary climb in the world of cycling. Legend has it that it was designed by an engineer with a grudge against humanity and a twisted sense of humour. With 21 hairpin bends and gradients that would make a mountain goat gasp, this isn’t just a bike climb; it’s a maniacal test of endurance, sanity, and pig-headiness.

Imagine a delightful bike ride in the French Alps, with picturesque scenery, a gentle breeze, and birds singing melodious tunes. Now throw that romantic notion out the window, strap yourself to a medieval torture device, and start pedalling up the hairpin turns of Satan’s staircase. Welcome to the Alpe d’Huez.  Since its first appearance in the Tour de France in 1952, this climb has seen the triumphs and tribulations of many a cyclist. From Fausto Coppi, who was the first to conquer it, to Marco Pantani, who ascended it as if he had wings on his wheels, Alpe d'Huez is the Everest of cycling.

To reach Club Med, a flight from London to Geneva takes just an hour and a half, with alternative options including flights into Grenoble, Lyon, or Chambéry. For a more exclusive arrival, the nearby Alpe d'Huez Airport—a small private airfield adjacent to the resort—welcomes helicopter and private plane landings.

My first meeting with Ed Clancy took place on the picturesque terrace of the Club Med, under blazing sunshine, accompanied by some delightful nibbles and aperitifs. Ed is about as laid back as they come—so much so that it’s hard to believe he could ever cycle fast! But after spending some time with him, it became clear he was also charming, intelligent, perceptive, unassuming, and gracious. And, a ton of fun to hang out with.

So, everything was set, and the next morning found me trying out a road bike for the first time. Now, I do cycle quite a bit—around 24 miles every other day along a meandering river on a mountain bike. But that's all off-road, along canal paths and through fields where cows churn up the mud. It’s aesthetically pleasing, as I steer clear of roads and hills like they’re the plague. To be clear, I’ve never ridden a road bike, worn cleats, or tackled any hill longer than 10 metres. Hills and I have an understanding: I avoid them and they stay out of my way.

Club Med's bike instructors know their business, they may not be Olympic-level pros, but they’re pretty close. They promptly outfitted me with shoes, cleats, and a road bike that seemed custom-tailored to my height and cycling style. Riding a road bike is a whole new world. The distance between the seat and the narrow handlebars is vast, the bike is so slim it could slip through the eye of a needle, and the wheels are as sharp as razors. Needless to say, road bikes wobble like a leaf in a gale.

Ed Clancy looked utterly at home on his custom fibreglass bike—because, well, he was. Before I could even suggest snapping photos from the safety of the van, we were hurtling down the vertiginous Alpe d'Huez at what felt like a hundred miles an hour. I’m convinced my bike was plotting to launch me off the mountain for some added comic relief. However, after a few minutes of frantic brake-pulling, we became as one—though not without a few heart-stopping moments along the way.

There I was, hurtling down the legendary Alpe d'Huez, wind in my hair and the scenic beauty of the French Alps a blur, keeping pace with none other than Olympic cyclist Ed Clancy. It was the thrill of a lifetime—each turn felt like a story, every pedal a beat in the symphony of spokes. I wasn’t just descending a mountain; I was carving through a chapter of the Tour de France itself, with each of the 21 hairpins paying homage to cycling's greats. 

And there was Ed, the epitome of British cycling, tossing out tips like:

“You’ll soon get used to it; it’s only downhill. Just wait till we have to climb back up this bugger!”

Way too soon, we were at the bottom, and off for a 40 km tour of the area to warm up before tackling the Alpe d'Huez climb. Flat road biking is pretty easy—the bikes are so light, they practically whizz along as if they had an electric motor. But of course, this was just the calm before the storm.

Soon enough, we were back at the bottom of Alpe d'Huez. Before I could even muster a “Wait, I think I’ve changed my mind!” we were off and climbing.

Right from the start, it felt impossible. The early gradients ranged from 10 to 13%, and I hoped things would improve quickly. “This isn’t so bad,” I thought, pedalling with misplaced optimism. But then the gradient hit double digits, my lungs began to scream for mercy, and I realized I was locked in a battle with a relentless hill that seemed to stretch into infinity.

The scenery was undoubtedly enchanting, if I could muster the energy to look up from my handlebars. Snow-capped peaks, lush green valleys, and the occasional cow that stared at me with a mixture of pity and amusement. But I wasn’t fooled; the mountain showed no mercy. It lured me in with its beauty, then crushed my spirit with its relentless incline.

My tactic was to treat each bend as if it were the only one and just keep pushing forward. I didn’t want to know how far the end was, I didn’t count the hairpin turns—I just kept going. And would you believe it, things actually started to get easier. I was in the lowest gear, pedalling like a man possessed.

I’d started last to avoid getting in anyone’s way, but soon I was overtaking others in the crowd. Around halfway up, I even passed a group who had given up and were now sitting by the side, red-faced and exhausted—basically, the look I was going for with added sweat.

Around three-quarters of the way up, Ed Clancy popped back to say hello, having finished a wee bit earlier than me—much to our mutual surprise. We cycled along chatting until he realized that his helpful words of encouragement were simply drowned out by my groans of agony. With a cheerful grin, he sped off, leaving me with the parting words:

"I’ll leave you to suffer through this beautiful climb in peace!"

Shortly after reaching a fork in the road that I recognised, the climb became gentler, and I could shift up a gear or two. My legs, having apparently forgotten we’d just tackled 21 ludicrous hairpin turns, suddenly felt like they were on a sprint. I could see the finish line and bombed it as fast as I could, snapping up the gears. I completed Alpe d’Huez in under an hour and a half—an achievement that would have delighted me even if I'd taken two hours or just managed to finish. All in 28° heat and blazing sunshine.

The Alpe d’Huez isn’t just a climb; it’s a rite of passage for masochists and cycling enthusiasts alike. If you ever find yourself thinking that a bike ride in the Alps sounds like a pleasant way to spend a day, remember the Alpe d’Huez and reconsider your life choices. Or don’t. Just make sure your will is up to date and your health insurance covers insanity.

To add insult to injury, I was the only one booked for the mountain biking session that afternoon. Meanwhile, Ed Clancy spent the rest of the day sipping something sparkling on the terrace and reading a book! What a cop-out—though I suppose he didn’t need the lessons, given that he’s more accustomed to breezing over mountains than battling them! Of course, he did come back down the mountain for me, so give him credit—he pretty much cycled it twice.

For lunch at Le Pic Blanc with Ed and the crew, I indulged in a feast of typical Alpine favourites alongside a selection of international dishes. The open-plan kitchen offers every dish imaginable—from the healthiest array of fruits and vegetables to the most decadent pizzas. During my stay, I savoured oysters, fish, various meats, and platters of sushi or paella. The rich flavours of raclette, sizzling grills, and artisan desserts were a delight, all enjoyed either on the scenic south-facing terrace or amid décor that celebrates the region’s rich sporting heritage.

After some great chats about cycling legends and life goals, I waddled over to the Mountain Bike School. It should be called a university, given the instructors' incredible skill. I got kitted out with knee and elbow pads and a spanking new mountain bike, with gears on the right and a seat height adjustment lever on the left. You need to drop the saddle as you go over bumps and jumps so you can shift your body up and down accordingly, without hitting the seat.

Luckily, we didn’t have to cycle up the mountain; instead, we took a cable car. It felt like cheating, but after conquering the Alpe d'Huez that morning, I wasn’t about to complain. The cable car ride was an adventure in itself, drifting over the jaw-dropping mountain landscapes, wafting gently in the wind. The bike tracks below looked absolutely insane, snaking through the lush green grass, with raised banks, wooden ramps, and suicidal jumps over rocks.

Our instructor explained the course and gave us tips on handling the banks, cornering correctly, and keeping the bike on the ground. Thankfully, there are alternative tracks to avoid the really terrifying bits, so you can choose to swan down or go full Evel Knievel. The runs are colour-coded like ski slopes: green, blue, red, black, and double black, denoting difficulty. We started with a green, quickly moving up to blue and red. Careering down the glorious peaks at full pelt, we braked just before the corners and flew up the banked curves, whooping all the way.

Eric, our instructor, was a pro at spotting mistakes. He showed me how to handle the bumps by pulling down and back—timing is everything. Swoop down as the bike goes up and keep the seat at its lowest setting. The Enduro bikes were superbly sturdy, making even the wildest stunts feel like a breeze. 

The buzz you get when you find your flow is electrifying: banking left, then right, flipping around corners, standing high as you approach the ramps, and ducking low as you drop over cliff-like edges. It’s like dancing with a metal frame over unbelievably gorgeous landscapes at speeds that would make a supercar blush. Your stomach lurches when you catch air over a jump, praying you land safely as the ground rushes up to meet you. 

Then you hop back in the cable car and do it all over again. Heaven is downhill cycling with no uphill required. Bless those cable cars! And best of all, your cable car pass is included, along with everything else—the bike, the instructors, the equipment, the lot. Club Med is exceptionally stylish in the way they organise it all.

After a blissful afternoon mastering new skills on that mesmerisingly paradisiacal mountain, I ended the day by the outdoor pool (there’s also an indoor pool), savouring the view from a more static and peaceful vantage point. Dinner at Les Alpage Restaurant that night was a delicious celebration, featuring a fabulous fondue with cheese and tomato, as well as cheese with morilles mushrooms. If you dropped your bread in the pot, you had to perform a forfeit, adding an extra layer of fun to the meal.

And like Groundhog Day, I was back on the road bike the next morning for a speedy descent of the Alpe d'Huez, followed by a leisurely 40 km ride through charming local towns, ending at the picturesque church atop the Montée Oz.

As an old hand by now, I could fully enjoy the ride, chatting with Ed and the others in our group. The river section was particularly serene and tranquil, almost ethereal in the rain and mist that accompanied our second day's jaunt. 

The view over the valley from the church is not to be missed—it's utterly breathtaking, with the lake below shimmering like a million diamonds and reflecting the snow-capped mountains all around. We then continued over the mountain pass, down to the lake, and back up to the resort. I could have cycled all day long. Luckily, I was booked in for another mountain bike session, slightly more advanced than yesterday's, so I could channel my inner daredevil once again!

We tackled the blue run, then the red, in a delightful mix of hail, rain, mist, and wind. We ended with a blue run from the top, braving the hail and muck. It was a great adventure! The teachers were brilliant, explaining riding techniques with a touch of humour.

"Turn your hips and shoulders into the corner," they said. "Pretend you’ve got a camera on your stomach aimed at the exit of the corner." And for climbing and bumping, "Sit like a frog with your knees out and legs bent."

They also advised braking in the straights and releasing as you hit the banked corners. Watch out for puddles—hit them straight or risk careening off like a waterlogged pinball. My namesake, Yves Fady, our mountain bike and ski guru, was a good guy—retired at 64 but still as spry as ever.

Feeling decidedly less spry after all this activity, I decided to indulge in a quick massage at the Club Med Spa by PAYOT. It was just what I needed to revive myself for the big evening ahead—because my muscles were in desperate need of a pep talk!

On the last night, both dinner and a staff show at Le Névé Bar were absolutely spectacular. The evening began with a dazzling fireworks display on the terrace, followed by an extravagant performance by the staff. They dazzled us with their incredible flair, delivering top-notch singing and dancing. The restaurant's sommelier even spiced things up with a delightfully sensual dance alongside a colleague.

On the last day, I enjoyed breakfast on the terrace in the blazing sunshine by the pool while Jahiz led an aqua aerobics class. With his immense charm and great sense of humour, he got everyone up and dancing in the water.

One of the things I admire most about Club Med is the chance for staff to work at different resorts around the globe, letting them travel the world while earning a living. It’s like getting paid to have a never-ending vacation!

Club Med is renowned for its exceptional locations all over the world, each one thoughtfully chosen to offer the best experiences. Their pride lies in the diverse range of sports they provide, catering to everyone from beginners to professionals—this is their core strength and unique selling point. Their sustainability program, "Happy to Care," underscores Club Med's commitment to environmental responsibility.

The array of activities on offer is also impressive, including biking, fitness, hiking, trail running, yoga (taught by the exceptional Heberson), swimming pools, cardio training, entertainment, and golf. They even offer high-quality electric bikes, so you can glide up and down the mountains, enjoying the exquisite views without breaking a sweat.

Alpe d’Huez feels like a giant sports playground, with the entire town doubling as a year-round resort. It’s a paradise for skiing, biking, and family-friendly activities, where every detail is meticulously designed to cater to guests' needs. If this place were any more perfect, it might just come with its own personal cheerleader!

Joking aside, I can’t recommend the Club Med Alpe d’Huez highly enough for an activity holiday with friends or family. They’ll have you cycling like a pro in a week, and you’ll learn valuable skills, all while getting superbly fit. Plus, you’ll feel like a million dollars afterwards—though hopefully not the kind of million dollars you’d need to spend on a new pair of legs! 

Club Med Alpe d’Huez masterfully weaves opulent luxury and invigorating health with a thread of quintessential French elegance, creating a warmth, charm, and sophistication that is impossible to match.

Deal to Alpe d’Huez

Seven nights all-inclusive stay at Club Med Alpe d'Huez, France from £1,125 per adult (based on dual occupancy). Price based on departure date 24.08.24. Book now at www.clubmed.co.uk/r/alpe-d-huez/s  or call 03453676767. 

Club Med Alpe d'Huez Winter

https://www.clubmed.co.uk/r/alpe-d-huez/w

Club Med Alpe d'Huez Summer

https://www.clubmed.co.uk/r/alpe-d-huez/s

Ed Clancy

https://www.edclancy.com/