Heritage, Glamour and Glitz: 3 Days in Saint Moritz

Heritage, Glamour and Glitz: 3 Days in Saint Moritz

Heritage, Glamour and Glitz: 3 Days in Saint Moritz

There’s a very good reason why Swiss wines are so difficult to track down in comparison with tipple from almost every other nation in the grape-pressing world. As our expert is quick to point out.
The statistics are remarkable. In total, just 0.5% of global production comes from Switzerland, and to satisfy even just the domestic market in this Alpine country two-thirds of every red and white consumed by the population must be imported. Needless to say then, we’re feeling rather privileged to be sitting here tasting some of the finest cultivated within the borders, as Master Sommelier Benjamin Wolf talks us through his selections, taken from a cellar that can boast up to 100 native varieties at any given time.
Then again, we’ve been feeling more than privileged since arriving at his place of business 48-hours earlier. After all, it’s not every day you get to stay in a 5* superior hotel overlooking one of the most beautiful views in Europe. And The Kulm in Saint Moritz lays claim to a history that’s just as impressive as that vista. This is where the whole idea of winter tourism first began, 150 years ago, when entrepreneurial hotelier Johannes Badrutt invited visiting Britons to return in the not-so-bleak midwinter (the surrounding valley being renowned for its sunny days, even in the colder months) and see what they thought of the place whilst knee-deep in snow.
Since then the address has been attracting the rich and famous in their droves. Wandering through the stunning original section of the residence, where Badrutt’s Stüva has stood since the mid-19th Century- a small wood-paneled room that’s now used to entertain small groups and special dining requests- and there’s a tangible air of heritage and occasion. Not least thanks to the creaking beams and floorboards that provide a charming pseudo-soundtrack to every footstep. And this atmosphere continues in the newer parts of the hotel too.
This weekend we’re staying in a junior suite, and although every room is individually appointed, you’d struggle to find one in a better position. A small balcony looks over that lake and out towards the imposing mountains that fringe the town. Our marble-clad bathroom has a shower big enough for poverty-stricken freelance writers to live in, and have spare space to rent out, and the living area is perfect for enjoying the exquisite complimentary chocolates that greet us on arrival (this is Switzerland, of course).
Even the pillows are worth a mention, coming in different varieties, each with a selection of linings scented to suit individual sleep tendencies. Although most guests probably won’t take advantage of the numerous options, given the entire boudoir smells of luxurious pine, a natural relaxant known for its ability to lower blood pressure, heart rate, and send you off for 40 winks in double quick time.
Elsewhere, and crystal chandeliers adorn the public areas, the lobby bar comes complete with a roaring fire and pianist who is both talented and, at least in our experience, omnipresent for the obligatory après-ski refreshments. Meanwhile, down on the spa level, guests have free reign over an abundance of saunas, massage areas, steam rooms and- best of all- an outdoor balcony pool that again makes the most of the situation. Steam rises up from the warm waters as we sit back, gaze up at a million stars, and then consider the fact we’re surrounded by snow-capped peaks.
Whilst The Kulm boasts a reputation as one of the finest hotels on the continent, it’s not the only place in town to enjoy luxury. Which makes perfect sense, given this is Saint Moritz, arguably Europe’s most decadent and glamorous winter sport resort, made famous by the likes of Alfred Hitchcock (The Man Who Knew Too Much) and James Bond (The Spy Who Loved Me). Here, fashion designers retire to their fashionable winter retreats, bars are places to be seen, and the majority of the seasonal population are fully-fledged members of the jet set.
Where else would you find institutions such as the mysterious Dracula Club, with it’s secretive, invitation-only lifetime members list and arguably the greatest drink every created to warm you on a freezing day. A Bull Shot, as we discovered, follows the Bloody Mary recipe, only replacing tomato juice with a meaty consommé. Not for vegetarians, or the indeed the faint-hearted, to use the colloquial; it’ll put skin on your back like velvet.
Around the corner, and we have the Cresta Club toboggan course, home to a male-only group of die hard enthusiasts who hail from across the world. Technically speaking, anyone can join (they even allow women to take part on Ladies Day, towards the end of the season), with the only requirement for entry a desire to throw yourself onto a small metal sled, and head down an increasingly vicious set of turns at breakneck speed. Colonel Rupert W. Wieloch, Club Secretary and the epitome of an English gent- cravat and all, welcomed us with open arms before explaining he had managed to break most of his fingers in pursuit of this thrill ride. And that’s getting away lucky.
A resort of serious pedigree and wealth, as is immediately apparent when wandering the busy shopping streets, all awash with ultra-high-end boutiques, taste and money may not always go hand in hand, but thankfully it would seem Saint Moritz is intent on ensuring they do. During our stay, we ate in several of the Kulm’s excellent dining rooms, from the exquisite, black-tie only Grand Restaurant, to the informal Pizzeria and legendary Sunny Bar (regular haunt of the Cresta Riders), and all were worthy of an establishment that lays claim to the 15 GaultMillau points awarded to The K, another of the many options therein.
Our travels also took us further from those corridors, too. Grand Hotel Kronenhof, in the equally prestigious but far more understated town of Pontresina, a few miles away, delighted us with Le Pavillon, a tiny, all-wooden eatery situated in the hotel grounds, overlooking enchanting forests and an award-winning spa. And, on a late night wander, our taste buds gravitated towards Pavarotti & Friends, a delightful wine bar with an excellent list, fantastic champagne selection, and some of the most mouth-watering Parma ham and Parmesan cheese you’re likely to find this side of the Italian border.
This is before we mention making good of the chance to eat in the Kulm’s kitchens, an experience not to be missed if you’re staying, which will satisfy anyone who enjoys filling the stomach with food made possible thanks to a clear labour of love, with chefs hard at work within spitting distance of the dining table. But that’s another story, for another time; and one you’ll probably want to live out first hand. As such let’s save the plot spoilers.
 
Saint Moritz and you 
Kulm Hotel St Moritz (www.kulm.com) currently has a “150 years of winter tourism” package available for the 2014/15 season only with 3 nights’ half-board accommodation, including an exclusive four-course dinner in the Stüva complete with beverages, a behind the scenes tour, a bottle of Champagne in the room, a traditional Engadin walnut cake, a sleigh ride to Lej da Staz, a 50-minute body massage per person, unlimited access to the Kulm Spa St Moritz and a daily-changing Fit & Fun sports programme. Prices start from CHF1,420 (approx £930) per person sharing the Badrutt bedroom (unless this is already booked, in which case guests will automatically be upgraded to a Junior Suite). The package is only bookable from Sunday to Thursday.
The Kulm Hotel St Moritz is open from 5 December to 5 April; for more information and to book, please visit www.kulm.com.
Travel to St Moritz from either Zurich or Geneva airport using a Swiss transfer pass, from £92 per person (second class). Book online at www.swisstravelsystem.co.uk.