OLYMPIC-STYLE EFFORTS REWARDED BY ISCHGL ADVENTURES

Following the slow and melodic plod of a herd of Tirolean cows with neck bells, put the brakes on our progress along part of the ‘Smuggler’s Trail’, which leads from Ischgl to Samnaun and which straddles the border between Austria and Switzerland. Moments earlier, we had snaked our way at speed down a mountain bike trail, which forms a much wider plan and expansion of man-made paths linking centuries old trails in the ‘Silvretta Bike Arena’, which spread like veins across the region and in yesteryear were used by smugglers to transport their clandestine goods for trade.

Today, they are specifically designed for a new breed of active adventurists to hike, bike, boulder, climb and reach points to paraglide above this part of the Tirol. There are over 100 bike kilometres in this mountain bike paradise and here we sat upon e-mountain bikes (e-MTB’s) worth as much as cars, yet caught-up in mountain traffic of a different kind and glad of the intermission, before our adventure continued.

e-Mountain Bike Trails

As Thomas Köhle, Managing Director of Ischgl Tourism Association and our e-MTB guide mentioned “during the summer months this high alpine territory belongs to the cows”. In September the cattle return to the valley with customary festivities to announce their arrival.

As the distinctive chime of cowbells petered out, Thomas shifted gears and soon became a spot in the distance, forging ahead towards our next staging post, a sign that simply read “Österreich”; the ‘smugglers trail’ constantly criss-crossed between Austria and Switzerland, before our trio of cycles could even think of relaxing at the end of this ‘Red’ marked trail and our final destination the Heidelberger Hutte.

To reach Heidelberger Hutte, gradients of 25% on narrow and boulder-strewn tracks, which fell away on one side, made this route challenging even for more experienced riders; but as with most things in life, the greater the effort comes the greater reward. This included the 360-degree cinematic panoramas of mountain peaks, brushed with last season’s snow fall and set against a deeply blue sky. It is an epic scenery of jagged summits as far as the eye can see and for which only the human-eye can truly do justice. One has to be in the moment, whilst imbuing the fresh, thin mountain air at just under 3,000m, prompting an almost euphoric feeling which only this type of Alpine nature can illicit.

Where the fun really starts

If our cable-car journey from the Silvretta Cable Station in the heart of Ischgl, up to the Flimjoch Mountain Station at 2,756m and proceeding ridgeline bike route was not challenging and breathtaking enough, Thomas suddenly announced “now the fun really starts”! With a glint in the eye, wry smile and thighs suggesting his weekends are spent in the saddle, should have set alarm bells ringing. From here on in, paths became so narrow, it could only fit the diameter of a tyre, whilst crossing streams, stone bridges, un-melted snow and hugging the precipitous edge of mountain-sides, which in some cases, even the heavy-duty e-MTB grips could not cope with.

Yet each kilometre we passed, new landscapes, flora and fauna unveiled itself; “Usually you can see Ibex up there” mentioned Thomas pointing to a series of craggy rocks, shaded by grander formations above, “but in all honesty it is too warm for them right now”.

Such flora and fauna are not in short supply at these heights. When our descent towards Heidelberger Hutte finally began after nearly 4-hours, two birds of prey were gliding elegantly on the thermals, their silhouette establishing a wide-wingspan but not the specific species. This region is home to peregrine falcons, bearded vultures and even the golden eagle. Whichever bird of prey was above us, the marmots were sounding a warning call and darting for cover. The roe deer, ibex and chamois remained elusive.

On reaching Heidelberger Hutte, typical Tirolean folk music greeted our arrival. A sextet of musicians serenaded a convergent flock of Lycra clad hikers and bikers, whilst local gourmet chef Patrick Raaß created a speciality chicken dish, fusing together top cuisine with alpine traditions in a uniquely rustic setting. Over the last 15-years, every summer local gourmet chefs serve up regional specialities at seven selected mountain huts in the Paznaun Valley, living up to a fine culinary reputation and tradition, now known as 'Culinary Paznaun'.

SkyFly thrill-seekers

Satiated, the ride down to mid-mountain terminal of the Silvrettabahn Gondola cut through another crucible of grand edifices before reaching the cover of firs, larches and spruces which within their canopy hides tranquil lakes for bathers and picknickers. Yet, within a region where adventurists seek adrenaline pursuits, the tranquil silence is often momentarily broken, as happened at mid-station’s ‘Ischgl Skyfly’, a two-person zipline which prompts squeals of joy and fright in equal measure for those brave enough to try it. Suspended in a harness 50 meters above the Kitzlochschlucht Canyon, the zipline journey has three sections, each one can send participants hurtling above the ravine at speeds of 84km/hr.

Sweeping through the cutting, like a bird-of-prey, is just one of many ways to feel part of this landscape. Every sense is heightened through speed, agility and balance. In the village of ‘See’ at the start of the Paznaun Valley, ramblers and hikers, share a winding track descending from the top station of the Medrig Mountain with go-carters, who kick-up dust in their wake especially when drifting around tight bends and best viewed from the ski-lift that passes above various sections of the track.

Ischgl & Galtür villages

The last section of SkyFly dropped us upon the roof of one of the Ischgl's more modernist buildings, but this famous winter resort has a beautifully quaint side, with church spire peering down upon Tirolean hotels and residences with their pitched roofs, wood balconies and flower box arrangements, all quintessentially Austrian and perfect for strolling around. Most hotels are owned by local families; this style of hostelry is handed down from one generation to the next, and was exactly what I experienced at the cosy Olympia Hotel Ischgl, having been welcomed by Christoph & Noemi Wolf, the hotel's young owners.

The highest village in the Paznaun Valley is Galtür at 1600m; the day before taking the challenging ‘Smuggler’s Trail’ we acclimatised ourselves to riding e-MTBs at the world’s first e-Bike Riding Centre, before enjoying a gentle cycle and ascent from Ischgl to the feet of the mighty and majestic 'Ballunspitze Mountain' in Galtür. The e-Bike Riding Centre circuits the flat roof of the 'Silvretta Therme Ischgl', a new €85m complex, where muscles are soothed in sauna cabins and outdoor pools which bubble and pummel bodies into better condition, and is open throughout the year.

Following the Trisanna River

With our e-bike proficiency tests given the green light, we set off towards Galtür, located at the head of the valley and home to a modest population of just under 900 people; the pathway between both these villages is scenic, serene and family-friendly. There was no need for a compass, as the Ballunspitze Mt provided our point of reference. We passed little hamlets of Tirolean charm, surrounded by alpine meadows in full summer bloom replete with aging barns and the Gentian plant which is cultivated for the purposes of making schnapps and cosmetics.   

Ballunspitze Mt has a trail and via ferrata leading to the summit at 2,761m, but our mission was to test ourselves against the 'Silva Trails Bike Park'. At the Alpkogelbahn valley station, Siggi's Trail Park offered pump tracks and jumplines, before squeezing our bikes into the cable cars and heading to a height of 1,970m and descending back to 1,630m on the Alpkogel MTB Trail. It is a beautifully fluid dirt track of 6.68km, curated into sweeping turns, boardwalk crossovers and complimented by the grand vista of the valley floor, leaving a lasting visual memento and wanderlust to explore more. The 'smuggler's trail' planned for the proceeding day turned out to be the 'more' I was looking for, testing my abilities and adding to my scrapbook of truly special adventures. 

Our return to Ischgl followed the gently gurgling Trisanna River, which has its source in Galtür. As gently as we rode up to the valley head, we rapidly descended back to Ischgl without needing to pedal, following the meander of the river until the distinctive green-tiled spire of Ischgl’s parish church came into view. 

It was definitely time to recharge all our batteries for another summer day in the Paznaun Valley.