BenMarco Wines
“Where expression of vintage over style is preferred”
BenMarco
It’s a Wednesday evening down at Gaucho, Tower Bridge and I’m sat down for dinner with Edy Del Popolo, the terroir whisperer who uprooted two thousand 80-year-old Malbec vines and successfully replanted them. This effort is part of Edy's broader mission to explore and tap into the hidden potential of Argentina's diverse terroirs, particularly in regions like Gualtallary. Edy's journey in viticulture began with his studies in enology and agronomy at Universidad Nacional de Cuyo in Mendoza. His career has been marked by a continuous quest for excellence, travelling the world to learn from both old and new wine regions. With over 30 years’ experience in viticulture, he’s the pioneer of uncharted sites and the general manager at Susana Balbo, which he joined in 2013.
During a 5-course dinner, Argentina’s number one malbec expert treated me to nine wines from the Ben Marco range, each emphasising the importance of terroir over style. With 80% of Edy’s wines coming from the Uco Valley, his wines offer a beautiful diversity of climate and soils, made from different appellations. With Ben Marco vines growing in some of the best soils in the world, Edy’s mission is to “embrace a minimal intervention approach, allowing the vineyards to speak for themselves”. BenMarco wines “allow us to go higher in elevation and work in extreme site never explored before”
As guests arrived for dinner, we’re welcomed with a glass of Ben Marco Plata Chardonnay 2024 and a trio of canapes including Pumpkin, Ricotta and Sage Ravioli, Straciatella Tostda and Sweet Potato and provolone empanada. This chardonnay is punching well above its weight and an absolutely delicious aperitif. Hand-harvest and hand-selected grapes from Valle de Uco. Grapes come 3 different grape growers in the Uco Valley with 50% of the wine is aged in second-and- third use oak barrels for three months. Pure, fresh genuine expression of the
Salmon tartare tacos are paired with Sin Limites Chardonnay 2023 and 2018 vintage. The Sin Límites collection is dedicated to exploring and showcasing the diverse landscapes of Argentina. Each wine in this series is made from grapes cultivated in distinct sub-regions, capturing the unique essence of the local terroir. This method emphasises the variations in soil, climate, and altitude, resulting in wines that are both distinctive and true to their origins. Its always enlightening to compare wine from the same parcel but different vintages. The 2023 appeared deeper golden in colour, as if it had undergone more ageing than its older brother, which in fact was extremely fresh despite its 5 additional years and demonstrates the evolution. Both made in exactly the same way with grapes from a very small parcel of only 1.5ha at 1,300m in Gualtallary, but the weather and ageing affecting the final taste. Fermentation takes place in the press with dry ice for 6 hours, followed by fermentation with wild yeasts in 500 liter French barrels. The mouth feel of these wines has been improved with 6 months on the lees in new and second-use French oak barrels. The 2023 Chardonnay offers vibrant acidity and fresh fruit flavours, including green apple, pear, and citrus. There's a subtle minerality and a hint of floral notes, making it a refreshing and complex wine. The 2018 Chardonnay is characterized by its rich and layered profile. It features ripe fruit flavours such as peach, apricot, and tropical fruits, complemented by a pronounced minerality.
Next up are two Malbecs to accompany the Beef and Olive Empanada. “Malbec is a great translator of the terroir”. Ben Marco Plata Malbec 2023 and Ben Marco Malbec 2022, which I was allowed to take home a bottle to enjoy with my own culinary invention. 2023 was a warm vintage in the Valle de Uco, with 2022 being a cold one. The 2022 comes from Los Chacayes and is macerated for longer than the 2023 at 30 days and fermentation at slightly lower temperatures. 40% of the Plata Malbec is treated to 8 months in third-and fourth-use French barrels, while 100% of the 2022 experiences 11 months in second-use French oak.
Plata Malbec presents vibrant dark fruit flavours such as blackberry and plum, with floral undertones and a touch of baking spices. The tannins are juicy and firm, leading to a warm, slightly woody finish. The 2022 is the winner here and is “at the heart of the winery”. Boasting aromas of blackberries and violets and on the palate, it offers pronounced acidity, firm tannins, and a long finish. Flavours include red and black cherries, with a hint of spice.
Vines in Los Chacayes are planted at high density and become ripe and thick-skinned during exposure to the sunlight at high altitude. Known for its alluvial soils with a mix of sand, silt, and clay, which contribute to the complexity and minerality of the wines. The high altitude and cool climate result in wines with vibrant acidity and intense flavours.
Only 30% of Ben Marco wines are exported, explains Edy “Wine is what we drink, wine is food, it’s our culture”.
Edy takes the conversation back to the uprooting and replanting of 80-year-old vines. His decision was motivated by a desire to explore and understand the unique characteristics of Argentina's diverse soils and climates. By planting new vines in carefully chosen locations, Edy aimed to achieve a more precise expression of the terroir, ensuring that the wines authentically reflect their origins. Now 84 years old, their profile has changed, and flavour and aromas reflect the new terroir.
I’m fascinated by Cabernet Franc from Mendoza so was excited to see a Ben Marco Cabernet Franc 2022 from Paraje Altamira being poured (alongside a 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon from Los Arboles) to wash down the slow grilled Ribeye steak chips and tender stem broccoli. The Cabernet Franc from Paraje Altamira offers a fresh and complex profile, while the Cabernet Sauvignon from Los Árboles provides a rich and structured experience. Los Árboles is extremely challenging environment in which to grow vines, as water availability is scarce. Grown at 1,150m above sea level, the higher you plant, the deeper you need to drill in order to access water. The soils here are predominantly sandy with good drainage, which helps in producing wines with purity and elegance. The climate is slightly warmer compared to other parts of the Uco Valley, leading to ripe, concentrated fruit flavours. The Cabernet Sauvignon features persistent dark berry flavours combined with a hint of spice and juicy acidity. It has a good structure, firm tannins, and a lingering finish. “We believe that Los Árboles is the best region in Valle de Uco to produce Cabernet Sauvignon. The sharpness of its rocky soils -almost like a riverbed- forces the vine to adapt by growing in a moderate way, which results in some very well-balanced yet powerful wines, with great elegance and personality.” The Cabernet Franc is a stellar representation of the Paraje Altamira terroir in the Uco Valley- a hint of spice, ripe yet fresh, with balanced acidity and structure.
We finished the meal with a selection of cheeses and Chocolate torte along with Sin Limites Gualtallary Malbec 2022 and the top cuvee at Ben Marco, the Expresivo 2022. The later was first produced in 1999 by Susana Balbo and in 2013, when Edy joined he created a modern-day version with 85% Malbec and 15% Cabernet Franc. Edy explains “Gualtallary is an extremely particular region which stands out from the rest because of its diversity regarding climate and soil combinations. Even though we know it very well, it keeps giving us pleasant surprises. This is the reason we choose it. I’m convinced that today’s finest wines from Argentina comes from this region.”
Ben Marco wines are a tribute to Argentina's rich viticultural heritage and the unique terroirs of the Uco Valley. Under Edy Del Pópolo's expert guidance, these wines embody a commitment to quality and authenticity, ensuring that each bottle is a true reflection of its origin.
BenMarco wines can be enjoyed at Gaucho Tower Bridge and from a range of retailers including Majestic Wine, The Great Wine Company and WineDirect.
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