Food & Drink

In this issue, I explore a collection of drinks that celebrates both deep rooted tradition and innovation. We begin in Bordeaux and Rioja, where regional classics are being thoughtfully reimagined for contemporary palates, before traveling to the storm swept coast of Galicia for an early harvest Albariño that captures the very essence of the region. For the spirits lover, I look at Japanese blending philosophy and a bold Scottish malt.

Relocating a successful restaurant is never without risk. Diners inevitably arrive with expectations, particularly when the original has built such a loyal following. Since opening in Cathedral House in 2021, Celentano's has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand, Scottish Restaurant of the Year at the Scotsman Scran Awards and a reputation as one of Glasgow's most exciting places to eat. Moving to the newly opened Arthouse Hotel on Bath Street marked the start of a new chapter for Dean and Anna Parker, but thankfully one thing hasn't changed — the food remains exceptional.

How a Revolution in Miniature Casks is Changing the Shape of Whisky Maturation

Whisky is an industry often defined by its reverence for tradition. Yet true innovation frequently occurs when someone looks at an established practice from an entirely different angle. For independent bottler Duncan Taylor Scotch Whisky, that angle is approximately one eighth the size of a standard sherry butt.

The Penedès isn't a place that tries to announce itself to the world. It is a rather unassuming pocket of Spain that takes immense pride in its vineyards, Cavas and people. Heritage is a very important word here. It lies just an hour outside of Barcelona, so an easy day trip, or you can make the most of it and stay where we did. The beautiful and rustic Font De La Canya https://www.hotelfontdelacanya.com/en is a stone’s throw from many wineries.

Yes, I know. More rosé. I promised myself I'd move on to something else this month, but then a pair of Italian pinks landed on my table and made a nonsense of that plan. If the wines keep being this good, I'm afraid the rosé run continues — and honestly, with the sun doing what it's been doing, I don't think anyone's complaining.

These two come from Pasqua, a Veronese producer I've long admired but whose rosés I'd somehow never tried until now. Consider that oversight corrected — emphatically.

Located in the Monadhliath Mountains just south of Inverness, Tomatin Distillery was once a quiet giant of the Highlands, famed for its massive production capacity geared towards the blending industry. The distillery has spent the last 25 years though elegantly redefining itself. Today, Tomatin is celebrated for a lighter, fruit-forward, and sophisticated portfolio of single malts.

I love a surprise, and I certainly had one on a recent trip to Warner’s Distillery near Kettering. Having judged the gin category at major food and drink awards multiple times, I have grown to dread the afternoon session. That is the slot reserved for flavoured gin. Quite frankly, eighty per cent are atrocious monstrosities made with cheap artificial flavourings that taste foul. It is routinely the worst afternoon of my judging year. When you find a good one though, it can be absolutely delicious, as I was delighted to discover on the rolling hills of Falls Farm.

The Modern Face of Scottish Craftsmanship

There is a powerful, almost tangible energy when two distinct worlds collide under a single, unified philosophy. In the world of luxury craft, heritage is often treated as a museum piece, something to be preserved exactly as it was. Yet, a recent and pioneering collaboration between independent cask broker Cask Trade, contemporary fashion designer Siobhan Mackenzie, and the forward thinking Nc’nean Distillery has turned this notion entirely on its head.

Last week, I attended a press lunch at Carousel in London alongside fellow whisky writers for the relaunch of Tormore, one of Speyside's most distinctive distilleries. The event was far more than the simple unveiling of a new range of single malts. It represented the fulfilment of a long held ambition for brothers Sukhinder and Rajbir Singh, whose profound influence on modern whisky appreciation through The Whisky Exchange remains difficult to exaggerate.

There is a version of Champagne that exists purely for the party. The pop, the pour, the Instagram moment. And then there is the version Cédric Jacopin makes. It asks you to slow down.