THE BEST OF RIOJA - BODEGAS VALDEMAR
A couple of weeks ago I attended Tim Atkin's “Best of Rioja” 2025 Portfolio tasting at One Great George Street, London. The event featured a wide range of wines, including traditional and modern styles, single vineyard wines, and blends from different sub-regions and villages within Rioja, arguably among the world’s greatest wine regions. It also the year Rioja celebrates the 100th anniversary of the creation of it Denominacion de Origen. Tim was at the event and shared “Even people who think they know Rioja well, don’t appreciate its remarkable diversity. For too long the region’s wines have been classified according to the amount of time they spent in oak before release. These days, there is much greater focus on origin, on expressing Rioja’s mosaic of soil types, altitudes and terroirs”.
Tim selected wines from top producers, categorised into First, Second, and Third Growths, as well as "Rising Stars" – producers who are making a significant impact in the region.
As a massive Rioja fan, I knew I’d see many of my favourite wine makers, many of which are Rioja’s top bodegas but decided to take the opportunity to meet and taste the wine’s of producers I was less familiar with, or indeed, had never tasted before.
There were too many highlights to cover in one article so I’m focusing Bodegas Valdemar. I’d never heard of them, never mind tasted their wines but I’m so pleased I stopped to chat and taste their range with Ana Martínez Bujanda, COO of the Valdemar family.
Bodegas Valdemar is a prestigious winery with over 130 years of history, rooted in the heart of the Rioja region. Founded in 1889, this family-owned winery has been a pioneer in the world of winemaking, consistently pushing the boundaries of innovation while honouring its rich heritage. The Valdemar family has cultivated a reputation for producing exceptional wines that reflect the unique terroir of their vineyards.
At the helm of Bodegas Valdemar is Ana Martínez Bujanda, the Chief Operating Officer. Ana, along with her brother Jesús Martínez Bujanda, represents the fifth generation of the Valdemar family. Her leadership and vision have been instrumental in driving the winery's success and expanding its global presence. Under Ana's guidance, Bodegas Valdemar continues to innovate, introducing new varietals and techniques while keeping the traditional values that have defined the winery for over a century. Her dedication to sustainability and excellence ensures that Bodegas Valdemar stays at the forefront of the wine industry, offering a diverse portfolio of wines that are celebrated worldwide.
We started the tasting with Ana pouring a glass of white Rioja, I must admit, the quality of white Rioja’s across the entire event were outstanding, so I was really looking forward to it.
Conde Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria Blanco Viñedo Singular 2023
Made with 100% Viura, which was first planted by Ana’s grandfather back in 1975 (a year that always catches my attention), this is remarkable white wine which exemplifies the Valdemar family's dedication to crafting exceptional wines.
Aromas of citrus fruits, crisp green apple, and delicate white flowers are beautifully intertwined with gentle notes of vanilla and a touch of toasted oak, a result of its careful aging process.
On the palate, the wine is impeccably balanced, offering a creamy texture that is both rich and refreshing. The lively acidity enhances flavours of ripe pear and lemon zest, while a distinct minerality adds depth. The oak influence is clear but well-integrated, contributing nuances of vanilla and a slight nuttiness that enrich the overall experience.
The finish is long and graceful, leaving a refreshing and lingering aftertaste that beckons for another sip. Its well-structured profile makes it a versatile companion to a variety of dishes, including seafood, poultry, creamy pastas, and soft cheeses.
Conde Valdemar Reserva 2018
A blend of 83% Tempranillo, 7% Graciano, 5% Garnacha and 5% Maturana. On the nose, it exudes aromas of ripe red fruits, such as cherry and plum, accompanied by notes of vanilla, spice, and a hint of tobacco. The oak aging adds complexity with subtle aromas of cedar and toasted nuts.
The palate is rich and well-structured, with smooth tannins and a balanced acidity. Flavours of dark berries, black cherry, and plum are complemented by layers of vanilla, cocoa, and a touch of earthy minerality. This wine's complexity and depth make it an excellent match for hearty dishes, such as grilled meats, stews, and aged cheeses.
Balcón de Pilatos Maturana 2020
A wine made with100% Maturana is quite special and somewhat unusual. Maturana Tinta is a rare grape variety that was nearly extinct until efforts were made to revive it in Rioja. Historically, it was almost wiped out by phylloxera in the late 19th century.
It offers a complex bouquet of black currant, pomegranate, and dried sage, with intriguing hints of orange zest. The aromatic profile is further enriched by subtle notes of cedar and bittersweet chocolate, a result of its careful aging.
On the palate it’s bold and well-structured, with plush tannins and a balanced acidity. Flavours of dark berries and brambly fruits are complemented by layers of bittersweet chocolate, cedar, and dried Mediterranean herbs. The finish is long and satisfying, with lingering notes of milk chocolate and nutmeg. This wine's robust profile makes it an excellent pairing for rich dishes, such as grilled meats, hearty stews, and aged cheeses.
Conde Valdemar Edición Limitada 2020
This limited-edition blend of 91% Tempranillo, 5% Maturana, 4% Graciano reflects the Valdemar family's dedication to producing high-quality, innovative wines and for me, was the star of the show (Tim awarded it 93/100).
Aromas of dark fruits, such as black cherry and plum are intertwined with notes of vanilla, cocoa, and a hint of dried herbs. The oak aging adds complexity with subtle aromas of cedar and toasted spices. On the palate it’s rich and well-structured, with velvety tannins and a balanced acidity. Flavours of ripe blackberry, black cherry, and plum are complemented by layers of vanilla, dark chocolate, and a touch of earthy minerality. The finish is long and elegant, with lingering notes of spice and dark fruit. This wine's complexity and depth also make it an excellent match for hearty dishes, such as grilled meats, stews, and aged cheeses.
We concluded the tasting with a unique and rare Rioja: a sparkling rosé, La Gargantilla Gran Añada 2020. Made with 100% Garnacha, this was their inaugural vintage, making it an especially memorable experience.
It offers a vibrant bouquet of fresh red fruits, such as raspberry and strawberry, accompanied by subtle floral notes. These aromas are beautifully balanced with hints of citrus and a touch of brioche, adding complexity to the profile. The palate is lively and refreshing, with a creamy mousse that enhances the wine's texture. Flavours of red berries are prominent, complemented by a bright acidity that brings out notes of lemon zest and green apple. The wine's minerality adds depth, while the fine bubbles provide a smooth and elegant mouthfeel. The finish is long and crisp, with lingering notes of pastry and a hint of almond. This sparkling rosé's balance and finesse make it an ideal choice for special occasions and celebrations.
La Gargantilla Gran Añada 2020 is a standout sparkling rosé that showcases the potential of Rioja's terroir for producing exceptional sparkling wines.
If I was forced to choose my favourites, then it would have to be Conde Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria Blanco Viñedo Singular 2023 and Conde Valdemar Edición Limitada 2020.
Bodegas Valdemar wines can be purchased from KWM Wines, North and South Wines, and Vinello. And if you are a wine merchant, restaurant or hotel looking to source via an importer you can do so by contacting Berkmann Wine Cellars.
Tim’s annual Rioja report, which accompanied the tasting, provides detailed reviews and ratings of the wines, serving as a valuable guide for wine enthusiasts. If you're interested in exploring the best of Rioja, the accompanying report is an excellent resource. However, I will be back in the not too distant future to feature more wines from Rioja.
