Chalk Restaurant at Wiston Estate – A Sussex Jewel at Lunchtime

As Part of Our Audi Q8 50 TDI Quattro Tour

As part of our Audi Q8 tour through the South Downs, we paused for what was intended to be a “light lunch” at Chalk Restaurant on the Wiston Estate. Of course, anyone familiar with English vineyards and the quiet revolution in fine dining happening beyond London will know that such a phrase is hopelessly naïve. This was no mere lunch, but a gastronomic event—an afternoon of sparkling wines, masterful dishes, and the sort of service that makes one forget entirely about the road ahead. The Audi could wait; indulgence came first.

A Vineyard in the Downs

There is something ineffably English about discovering greatness where you least expect it. Driving down the A24 through the South Downs, one anticipates sheep, hedgerows, perhaps a farm shop with homemade chutney—but rarely haute cuisine. Yet tucked discreetly past Ashington and before Worthing lies Wiston Estate, a swathe of bucolic beauty where chalky soils nurture vines that produce some of the finest sparkling wines in the country.

The Goring family have tended this land for centuries, and since 2006 have been at the forefront of England’s sparkling wine revolution. Their Blanc de Blancs has regularly outshone French rivals in blind tastings, a fact that delights the English and no doubt makes a few Burgundian winemakers spill their café crèmes in mild disbelief.

But it isn’t only the wines that have raised eyebrows and glasses. In a 400-year-old barn once home to chickens, the estate has created Chalk Restaurant: a dazzling marriage of modern elegance and rustic authenticity. It is here, at lunchtime on a bright Thursday, that I found myself being gently seduced by one of the most memorable meals Sussex—or indeed England—has to offer.

The Setting – Chic Poultry Palace

The building wears its history lightly. The barn’s soaring beams and wide dimensions remain, but today they frame an airy, contemporary dining room. The cement floor gleams like polished stone, a central oval bar provides both anchor and theatre, and white wood shelves hold an arrangement of monochrome ceramics so deliberately casual they might as well have been placed by the Tate’s curatorial staff.

Two vast egg-shaped chandeliers dominate the space, dangling with cosmic presence above marble and wooden tables. They are witty nods to the barn’s feathered past, though one suspects the original residents never enjoyed such extravagant lighting.

On this particular Thursday lunchtime, the restaurant thrummed with a smartly dressed clientele—city escapees, local gourmands, and the kind of quietly chic Sussex set who wear linen as though born in it. The atmosphere was lively without being intrusive, a perfect backdrop for the indulgence to come.

The Wines – Sussex Sparkles Supreme

One begins, of course, with a sparkling. At Wiston, to do otherwise would be sacrilege. A glass of the estate’s non-vintage Blanc de Blancs NV was poured with a smile: pale gold, tiny persistent bubbles, a mouthfeel so refined it was quite literally gold on the tongue. Crisp yet creamy, it reminded me why English sparkling has ceased to be the punchline of a joke and is now, quite genuinely, the equal of Champagne.

Later, Wiston’s Rosé 2018 joined the proceedings, a coral-hued, cranberry-bright wine brimming with depth. And then came the 2018 Blanc de Blancs, a wine of remarkable structure: rich, buttery, notes of butterscotch, melon, and tangerine, with a length that seemed determined to outlast lunch itself. To pair wines with food is one thing; to pair wines with their birthplace, literally metres from the vineyard, is quite another. It is terroir as theatre.

Starters – Whispers of the Sea

The focaccia with butter was the opening act, unpretentious yet irresistible. Warm, fragrant, a perfect foil for the sparkling, it lulled one into a state of easy pleasure.

Then came the line-caught sea bream. This was not simply a starter; it was a memory rendered edible. Lime jus and aniseed crunch conjured visions of salt breezes and seaside picnics. A single grape, aged in jus, was placed like a gemstone at the centre, delivering a burst of sweetness that elevated the dish from delicious to unforgettable. It was the culinary equivalent of a haiku: simple, spare, but resonant with meaning.

The chicken liver parfait followed, and here Chef Jordan Powell demonstrated his mastery of the classics. Smooth beyond belief, rich yet balanced, it was velvet on the palate, accompanied by accompaniments that neither distracted nor overwhelmed. It was indulgence pared back to its essence.

The Mains – A Master at Work

If the starters were poetry, the mains were symphonies.

The south-coast halibut arrived first, a dish of zesty brilliance. Smoked butter, mussels, coco beans, lemongrass—flavours that one might fear would clash instead played together in powerful, precise harmony. It flirted with curry-like depth without the heat, a clever sleight of hand that gave it exoticism while remaining refined. Paired with the 2018 Blanc de Blancs, it was transcendent.

Then the corn-fed poussin with Scottish girolles: light yet complex, subtle yet full of character. It unfolded in layers, each bite offering something different—a kaleidoscope of flavours shifting and reforming. It was playful, dazzling, impossible to pin down. If halibut was a single bold statement, poussin was an entire conversation.

Chef Powell’s approach became clear: he is a conductor, not a soloist. Each ingredient had a voice, but together they created harmony. His skill lies not in overwhelming but in balancing, contrasting, and weaving. The result is cuisine that is both intellectual and deeply pleasurable.

Desserts – Ice Cream for the Gods

Desserts brought indulgence of a different order. My 40% Jivara chocolate bar was luxurious, darkly rich without heaviness. Ems’s peach frangipane tart, meanwhile, was sunshine incarnate. Both were delicious, but both were also stunningly balanced.

By the ice cream.

The lemon verbena, paired with the tart, was bright and herbal, cleansing yet indulgent. The vanilla, served with the chocolate, was revelatory. Silky, rich, a depth of flavour so pure it made one wonder what on earth lesser establishments are serving when they call it “vanilla.” As a self-confessed ice cream addict, I can say without hesitation: this was the finest I have tasted. If the gods dine, this is surely their preferred frozen pleasure.

Service – Warmth, Knowledge, and Charm

Great food without great service is like opera without an orchestra. Fortunately, Chalk excels on both fronts.

Front of house, led by the superb Jo, was welcoming, attentive, and effortlessly informative. Charlie, the sommelier, was a delight—knowledgeable without pomposity, charming without affectation, guiding us through Wiston’s wines with the enthusiasm of a man who clearly adores his cellar. Together they created an atmosphere of relaxed elegance: one felt at once indulged and at home.

The Estate – Context is Everything

To dine at Chalk is to dine within a story. Wiston Estate is no mere backdrop; it is an integral part of the experience. The vineyards stretch across the Downs, the chalk soil lending its minerality to the wines. The Goring family’s stewardship brings history and continuity, while the estate’s winemaking team brings vision and innovation.

Chalk Restaurant, under Jordan Powell, is the natural extension of this ethos. It is about balance: heritage and modernity, rustic authenticity and refined artistry, local ingredients and international inspiration. The restaurant is not an appendage to the vineyard; it is its culinary expression.

Chef Jordan Powell – From Prodigy to Provenance

Chef Jordan Powell’s culinary journey began at the age of 14 when he won a Rotary Young Chef competition. His ascent continued as he competed in the Young National Chef of the Year 2020 final, where he earned a respectable second place, showcasing his skills on a national stage. At Chalk, Powell’s philosophy centres on seasonality and locality, crafting dishes that celebrate the rich produce of the South Downs. His approach is rooted in simplicity and respect for ingredients, allowing the natural flavours to shine. Powell’s culinary artistry at Chalk has garnered acclaim, positioning him as a rising star in the gastronomic world.

Wiston Estate – A Legacy in Every Sip

Wiston Estate’s winemaking legacy is a tale of passion and precision. Established by the Goring family, the estate’s vineyards flourish in the ‘banana belt’ of the South Downs, where the unique chalky soils and microclimate create ideal conditions for viticulture. Under the guidance of Dermot Sugrue, often hailed as Britain’s finest winemaker, Wiston’s sparkling wines have garnered international recognition. Sugrue’s commitment to purity and terroir expression was instrumental in elevating English sparkling wines to global acclaim, and his tenure at Wiston Estate, spanning over 16 years, laid a solid foundation for the estate’s continued success.

For the past three years, the reins have been held by Marcus Rayner-Ward, whose thoughtful stewardship has ensured that Wiston continues to evolve while staying true to its roots. Building on Sugrue’s pioneering work, Rayner-Ward has ushered in a new chapter defined by refinement, innovation, and an unwavering dedication to excellence—ensuring every bottle from Wiston carries forward the estate’s legacy with renewed vitality.

A Sussex Star Ascendant

So how does one sum up Chalk Restaurant?

It is, of course, one of the finest dining experiences in Sussex. But it is more than that. It is a statement that English wine and English cuisine no longer need to apologise, explain, or hide behind continental cousins. They can stand proudly, confidently, even playfully, in the global arena.

At lunch that Thursday, beneath chandeliers shaped like eggs in a barn that once housed chickens, I experienced food of creativity, wines of distinction, and service of genuine warmth. It was not merely lunch; it was a celebration of what English gastronomy has become.

To miss Chalk would be to miss one of the brightest stars in the South Downs. Go for the food, stay for the wine, and leave with the smug glow of one who has discovered something extraordinary.

Chalk Restaurant at Wiston Estate