Côtes du Rhône: Beyond the Bottle
Exploring the Essentials of Wine Tourism
Cotes Du Rhone
Early this summer I had the pleasure of spending 4 days in Avignon exploring what the Côtes du Rhône region has on offers when it comes to Wine Tourism. I went with quite a few pre-conceptions, mainly that all the wines would be red, very heavy with high levels of alcohol that would blow my head off and the quality would be questionable! But my experience was far from those pre-conceptions and I learnt so much more about the wines of Côtes du Rhône, the people and the wide range of activities (including family friendly) you could take part in from a blending competition, to tasting wines deep within the cave that they’ve been aged in. My first two days were packed with hands-on experiences and insider perspectives, providing a practical look at what makes this area so attractive to wine lovers. My biggest takeaways - The olives, olive oils and tapenade are outstanding, so much so you could spend your entire visit just tasting these, ‘The 20/20’ Rule, if its red, chill it for 20 minutes before drinking and if its white or rosé, take it out the fridge for 20 minutes before drinking, the rosé wines are as good as Provence but cost less (makes sense given Provence is adjacent and the Rhone River flows through both), white wines are becoming more popular so production is on the up, and when chilling white or rose wine in an ice bucket, be sure to gently tip the bottle upside a few times before uncorking to ensure the wine in the neck of the bottle is as chilled as the rest. I’m breaking my review of “Beyond the Bottle” into 2 editions as there’s so much to talk about and you can use it as a useful itinerary when planning a visit to the region.
DAY ONE
Domaine Des Romarins: Terroir and Artistic Collaboration
I started the day at Domaine Des Romarins, run by 4th generation winemakers, Xavier and Benoit Fabre, two brothers with a passion their dedication to street art: the winery regularly invites artists to design murals on their fermentation tanks and create custom bottle labels. This approach brings colour and contemporary energy to the cellar, making each bottle a unique reflection of both the terroir and artistic vision. Their portfolio features classic Rhône varieties such as Grenache and Syrah, with tasting notes that emphasise fresh fruit, herbal undertones, and balanced acidity. They also produce wine with the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Signargues appellation. The name of the appellation refers to the blood shed during various invasions throughout history and only produces red wines.
Beyond their tastings you can stay for the weekend, take part in a winegrowers walk but an absolute must is to schedule a guided tour through the vineyards in a Mehari, the most exhilarating way to appreciate the landscape – it’s incredibly cool too!
www.domainedesromarins.wpcomstaging.com
Chateau des Coccinelles: Blending Battle with the President
The brothers kindly dropped me off at Chateau des Coccinelles, where I was treated to a beautiful French alfresco lunch which of course included a full blown wine tasting with winemaker Jean-Baptiste Mangin, who also happens to be the president of Syndicat des Vignerons de Signargues. I learnt very quickly that the French really do know how to do lunch! Post lunch he invited my group to take part in a “Blending Battle”—friendly, interactive workshop where visitors blend their own wine from base varietals under the guidance of the estate team. This session demonstrates the importance of blending in Côtes du Rhône wines, highlighting how different grape proportions affect structure, aroma, and finish. for 2.5 hours, and learn, equipped with test tubes, the aromatic and sensory characteristics of wine, for a successful blend.
Minimum of 2 people and maximum of 20 people. Private groups are possible (hen parties, stag parties, companies, etc.), reduced rates for groups of 6 or more.
www.chateau-coccinelles.com/en
Avignon: Guided Tour with Avignon Tourism
The afternoon brought a guided tour of Avignon, organised by Avignon Tourism. The tour included key sites such as the Palais des Papes, the Pont d’Avignon, and several historic squares. The guide shared details about the city’s medieval history, the influence of the papal residency, and the region’s culinary heritage.
Private Tasting with Les Compagnons des Côtes du Rhône
Next was a private tasting with Les Compagnons des Côtes du Rhône, held in a high-altitude, secluded vineyard overlooking the valley. This invitation-only event showcased limited-release wines from select producers, with commentary on soil types, microclimates, and vineyard management. The Compagnons shared insights into how elevation and exposure contribute to freshness and ageing potential in their wines.
www.compagnonscotesdurhone.fr/en
Dinner at Restaurant La Fourchette
The day concluded with dinner at Restaurant La Fourchette, joined by Helene Jaume from Vignobles Alain Jaume and Sophie Steinloff from Rhonea. The menu was built around seasonal, local ingredients paired with carefully selected wines from both estates. Discussions centred on sustainable viticulture, vintage variations, and current market trends, providing valuable perspective from respected leaders in the region.
Rhonéa is a collective of 300 families of "Artisans Winegrowers" spread over 2,000ha in the most beautiful terroirs of the Rhone Valley for 3 to 4 generations. Bound by a shared passion yet shaped by individual journeys, they pass down their expertise through generations. With deep-rooted knowledge of their terroirs, plots, and grape varieties, they strive to bring out the finest expression of each. Season after season, they remain devoted to ethical and sustainable viticulture. There’s so much to do here on a visit to Rhonea, guided hikes through beautiful landscapes, discovering spectacular vineyards, history and the scenery that makes this region so special. If hiking feels too extreme then try out their electric mountain bikes, or enjoy a unique tasting led by their sommeliers, who will guide you through delicious food and wine pairings designed to showcase the best of their local wines. For those who want a more personal adventure a dedicated expert guide can design a bespoke itinerary that combines cellar visits, village explorations and terroir discovery.
With Alain Jaume's Table: A Journey into the Heart of Rhône Wine Culture, you step into the world of the winemaker and immerse yourself in the soul of the Rhône Valley. This unique experience invites you to explore the vineyards and terroirs that shape our wines, followed by an intimate visit to their cellars where tradition and craftsmanship meet. The journey culminates in a curated food and wine pairing, thoughtfully prepared by our chef to highlight the distinct character of each vintage. Set in an idyllic environment, it’s the perfect way to discover the rich typicities and timeless elegance of Rhône Valley wines.
www.vignobles-alain-jaume.com/en
Day Two
Domaine des Favards: Accommodation, Vineyard Tour, and Tasting
The second day began at Domaine des Favards, where I was welcomed on-site by Celine Barbaud, winemaker and estate manager. Celine explained that the DNA of her family is to ‘welcome people’, so they set up a campsite, run by her sister with accommodation ranging from long wooden barrels, to cabins and the opportunity to bring your own tent or motorhome. With the heat of the summer sun, you can enjoy a dip in the pool and a chilled glass of wine at the bar. Here you can enjoy an immersive experience in the heart of the Rhône vineyards, with everything from solex tours, local market visits, educated tours of the vineyard and of course wine tasting. If visiting during June – September, you can enjoy the visiting local producers market which takes place every Tuesday in the winery garden. The options for the vineyard tour are really flexible, accommodating most needs, there’s the self-tour, tour with an educational brochure or for the best experience, a tour with Celine.
The visit concluded with winetasting which includes a white, Les Favards 2024 ‘Un bin de Magic’ given this name as its such a magical wine – you don’t expect bourboulenc (95%) to produce such a great wine. My favourite was L’Une et L’Autre’ 2020 meaning ‘The One and The Other’, made from 40 year vines and 100% Syrah.
BBQ Lunch at Domaine de Rocheville
Lunch was hosted by Guillaume and Mylène Rocheville at Domaine de Rocheville, where we gathered for a relaxed, barbecue-style meal. But before lunch we were invited to take part in an olive oil tasting, the olive trees here are over 200 years old, followed by wine tasting with tapenade. Highlights from the tasting were The Domaine de Rocheville Cuvée Angéle 2023 Rosé - a delightful rosé, crafted from a harmonious blend of Shiraz/Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault grapes, which contribute to its vibrant and refreshing character.
A bouquet of fresh and fruity aromas that are both inviting and invigorating. The palate is treated to ripe red berries, subtle citrus, and a hint of floral undertones. The wine's crisp acidity and well-balanced structure make it a perfect companion for a variety of dishes, from light salads to grilled seafood. I also loved what refers to as an excellent ‘friends’ red, as it’s so easy drinking, Cotes du Rhone Rouge Bio 2022 cuvee vieilles vignes, an expression of 50 year old vines.
The highlight of a visit here is the ‘Winemakers BBQ’, where you have an opportunity to engage with the people behind the wines in a convivial setting, with conversations spanning grape varieties, vintage challenges, and the evolving wine tourism landscape. They were such a lovely family, I could have stayed with them all afternoon and maybe squeezed in a visit to the olive trees.
Blind Tasting Workshop at La Domaine Ferme Saint Martin
The afternoon led us to the pictureseque Suzette and Domaine Ferme St-Martin, a discreet winemaker of the Beaumes-de-Venise appellation. Here we admired the views and engaged in yet another wine tasting, this time outside with Sophie Jullien. She explained how grapes are harvested by hand, ripened between Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail. In the spirit of respect for the environment and our health they cultivate the vines without synthetic molecules and vinify their wines naturally. The local community is especially important to them, they work with two local schools, where the children are invited to take part in the harvest and each class designs artistic labels for the wine bottles. My favourite wine of the tasting was Carlina 2023, a white blend made with 30% Roussanne, 40% Clairette, 15% White Grenache and 15% other white grapes, from vines aged 5 to 30 years old. The grapes are meticulously hand-harvested and hand-sorted. The vinification process is carried out in 2, 3, or 4 separate batches, then aged for 9 months in tuns and concrete vats, and it is produced without the use of sulphur. This wine boasts a golden hue and a complex nose with aniseed and floral aromas. On the palate, it is sleek and fresh, offering a long finish with mouthwatering bitter notes. This wine can be enjoyed while young, reaching its peak between 1 to 3 years. It also has an aging potential of 5 to 7 years when stored in a cool cellar.
You can take part in a blind tasting workshop at Domaine Ferme Saint Martin. Participants were challenged to identify varietals and vintages without visual cues, honing their palates and gaining a deeper appreciation for the nuances of Rhône wines. The workshop was both educational and entertaining, drawing on the expertise of the Domaine’s team. Beyond blind tasting you can also take part in a blending workshop, cellar tours, food and wine pairing workshops, wine tasting under hypnosis and vineyard massages.
Dinner at Restaurant Le Carré du Palais, Avignon
To close the day, dinner was held at Restaurant Le Carré du Palais, one of the restaurants we had recommended by our walking tour guide, accompanied by Ann Vermeersch from LePlan-Vermeersch winery and Jérémie Castor from Mas de Toulair / Château Saint Nabor. The evening featured a curated pairing menu, highlighting both classic and innovative expressions from these producers. Lively discussion revolved around winemaking philosophies, regional identity, and the future of sustainable wine tourism in the Rhône Valley.
Ann Vermeersch is a prominent figure in the winemaking world. She joined LePlan-Vermeersch Winery in 2005 and has since taken on the roles of General Manager and Winemaker. Ann's passion for winemaking was ignited at the local oenology school in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region, where she developed her skills and met her future husband, Sebastian Barbara. Known for her vibrant personality, Ann enjoys hosting parties and preparing elaborate meals for her friends. She also loves traveling to Belgium, where she explores new bars and restaurants.
LePlan-Vermeersch is a family-owned winery situated in the Rhône Valley. It was established in 2000 by Dirk Vermeersch, a former Belgian racing car champion. Dirk's enthusiasm for winemaking led him to create the winery, which has grown significantly over the years. Today, LePlan-Vermeersch produces a diverse range of wines that have garnered high praise from critics and wine lovers alike. The winery is renowned for its dedication to quality and innovation, and it continues to thrive under Ann Vermeersch's leadership.
Ann explained how “there’s a Rhone wine for every occasion, with a large region and diversity of grapes, there’s so many varieties to play with, you will never find two wines the same”. She went on to explain the accessibility of their wines, “we make wines to put on the table, to enjoy with friends, you don’t need to age or know anything about the wine, to enjoy it”.
There’s a real sense of down-to-earth fun with these wines, no technical jargon, just pop the cork and enjoy the wines. And back at the winery they are big on events, especially music events, LePlan Rocks took place in July, the unmissable music festival in Suze-la-Rousse! Imagine yourself in the vineyards, surrounded by nature, listening to exceptional artists live. This event mixes good music, a festive atmosphere and a passion for wine. I guess this is the advantage of having hard rock musician Sébastian Barbara as your winegrower!
One of my favourite Le Plan wines is the RS Suze Cotes du Rhone Villages 2022, its vibrant and refreshing character, making it a perfect companion for a variety of dishes. And here’s the great thing, you can buy Le Plan wines in the UK from Carrington’s Fine Wine
Château Saint Nabor is a family-run winery nestled in the village of Cornillon in the Côtes du Rhône region of southern France. The estate is a testament to tradition, quality, and continuity, having been operated by the Castor family for six generations.
The Castor family's winemaking journey began in the late 19th century, with the first few generations producing wine primarily for personal use. It was Edmond Castor, the fourth generation, who initiated commercial production and successfully lobbied for the region’s classification under the Côtes du Rhône appellation in 1972. His son, Gérard Castor, took over in 1970 and expanded the estate from 7 hectares to over 140 hectares, shifting the focus from quantity to quality.
Today, the estate is managed by Gérard’s sons, Jérémie and Raphaël Castor, who represent the sixth generation. Both are highly trained in viticulture, oenology, and wine marketing, and they bring a blend of tradition and modern expertise to the business. Jérémie even spent time working in California to broaden his experience. The brothers are now grooming the seventh generation, who, though still young, are already showing interest in the vineyard and winemaking.
Château Saint Nabor is known for producing wines that reflect the diverse terroir of the Rhône Valley. The winery practices “Agriculture Raisonnée”, a sustainable farming method that respects the environment. It is certified as a High Environmental Value (HEV) producer by the French government, ensuring minimal impact on air, water, soil, and biodiversity.
Their wines are crafted with a mix of traditional and modern techniques—some are aged in tanks, while others spend time in neutral French oak barrels to enhance complexity. The estate also features a tasting room housed in part of an 11th-century chapel, adding historical charm to the experience.
In addition to their range of fresh and fruity wines, there’s so much more to enjoy on a visit here. Jérémie’s wife runs Mas de Toulair, their 13 room luxury guesthouse with outdoor swimming pool and hot tub. Here you are spoilt for choice when it comes to activities, in addition to the all year round wine tasting in the tasting rooms, you can visit the local market to choose the ingredients you’ll need for cooking with the chef during one of their fun cooking classes. For those who are looking for a non-corporate setting you can enjoy team building and seminars in this picturesque setting. My two favourite wines were the Chateau Saint-Nabor Rose Tradition, full bodied, ripe red berries with a lovely freshness and their Cuvee Prestige 2022 Cote-du-Rhone Villages (50% Grenache, Syra, Mouverdre, and Carignan). Both powerful and delicate, with red and black fruits and a hint of spice.
With two days complete, the itinerary continues to map the diversity and depth of Côtes du Rhône wine tourism. More insights from days three four will follow, further exploring the region’s producers, personalities, and wine culture.
