FINE WINE HAS MANY FACES: Exploring Bodegas Numanthia

I recently had the pleasure of attending a wine tasting lunch at HISPANIA London, where we explored the exceptional Numanthia and Termanthia wines from Bodega Numanthia. Hosted by the Estate Director, Julio Rodriguez, the event was a celebration of Spanish Old Vine viticulture, showcasing the depth and complexity of these renowned wines from the Toro region.

The Denomination of Origin (DO) Toro, situated in the northwest of Spain, is renowned for its ancient bush vines, primarily of the Tinta de Toro variety, a local clone of Tempranillo. These vines, some of which are over a century old, have become a symbol of the region's rich viticultural heritage.

One of the most remarkable features of these old bush vines is their natural resistance to phylloxera, a pest that devastated many European vineyards in the late 19th century. The sandy soils of DO Toro acted as a barrier, preventing the spread of this pest and allowing the vines to remain ungrafted and thrive. This resilience contributes to the exceptional quality and concentration of the grapes.

These ancient vines are known for their low yields, typically producing only a small amount of fruit per hectare. This limited production results in highly concentrated grapes, which in turn create wines with profound depth, structure, and complexity. The deep root systems of these vines, which can reach several meters into the soil, enable them to access water and nutrients even in dry conditions, further enhancing the quality of the fruit.

HISPANIA London: The Embassy of Spanish Cuisine

Located at 72-74 Lombard Street is HISPANIA London, often referred to as the "Embassy of Spanish Food" due to its dedication to authentic Spanish culinary traditions. The restaurant is housed within the historic Lloyds Bank building, offering a grand and elegant setting that perfectly complements its exquisite cuisine.

Designed by the renowned Lorenzo Castillo, HISPANIA London features a blend of Spanish materials and custom-made furniture, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. The restaurant's interior is adorned with Macael marble and zinc-topped bars, echoing the classic bars of Madrid.

HISPANIA London is celebrated for its exceptional Spanish dishes and tapas, crafted by Michelin-starred chef Marcos Moran. The menu offers a symphony of flavours, honouring the rich tapestry of Spanish gastronomy. Guests can savour traditional delights such as ham croquettes, octopus carpaccio, and the famous "fabada" from Asturias, along with a curated selection of wines from Spain's most renowned regions.

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Bodegas Numanthia: A Legacy of Resilience and Excellence

Established in 1998, Bodegas Numanthia is a beacon of the rich winemaking tradition in Spain's Toro region. Located in Valdefinjas, Castile and León, the winery draws its name from the ancient city of Numancia, renowned for its inhabitants' fierce resistance against Roman conquest. This spirit of resilience is mirrored in the winery's dedication to producing exceptional wines from ancient Tinta de Toro vines, some of which are over a century old. 

Their wines have gone through a huge transformation. In 2004 Robert Parker awarded Termanthia, Numanthia’s flagship wine, a perfect score of 100, one of only nine Spanish wines to receive such an accolade but with 200% oak some claim you needed a knife and fork to enjoy them. 

But in the last 15 years, a new era of evolution has begun at Numanthia, and current winemaker Jesús Jiménez has continued to advance this journey aiming to modernise the winemaking approach while preserving the essence of Numanthia. 

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Julio Rodriguez: Leading with Vision

Julio Rodriguez, the Estate Director at Bodegas Numanthia, brings a wealth of experience and passion to the winery. Originally from Argentina, Julio has been a key figure in the Numanthia project since its early days. With a background in working for Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH) across various regions, including France, Argentina, and California, Julio's expertise in viticulture and commitment to quality have been pivotal in elevating Bodegas Numanthia's reputation.

Julio's approach emphasises preserving the legacy of the old vines while incorporating modern techniques to enhance the wines' complexity and elegance. His vision for the future includes expanding the winery's reach and continuing to produce wines that reflect the unique terroir of the Toro region.

Bodega Numanthia, founded in 1998 by the Eguens family, who already had projects in Rioja, has harnessed the potential of old bush vines to produce some of Spain's most celebrated wines. The iconic Termanthia and Numanthia wines are crafted from these ancient vines, showcasing the rich flavors and robust character that the Toro region is known for. The meticulous care and dedication required to maintain these vines are reflected in the exceptional quality of the wines produced.

Their ability to withstand harsh conditions and produce high-quality grapes makes them a unique and valuable asset to the region. The wines crafted from these ancient vines are a true reflection of the rich heritage and enduring spirit of DO Toro. Their focus is solely on older vines, with the youngest being 30 years old, which are not used for their premium wines. For Numanthia, the vines average between 70 and 80 years old, while for Termanthia, they range from 110 to 120 years old. They manage a total of 163 hectares of vineyards, divided into 150 distinct blocks, some as small as 1,400 square meters. These small blocks have endured due to the high quality they produce.

Of these vineyards, 80 hectares are owned, while the rest are leased or under long-term contracts. They oversee most of the blocks themselves, ensuring that all vineyards are organically managed.

Jesus Jimenez, the talented winemaker who joined Bodegas Numanthia in 2018, plays a crucial role in crafting the winery's acclaimed wines. With a deep respect for tradition and a keen eye for innovation, Jesus meticulously oversees the winemaking process, ensuring that each bottle “preserves the essence of the Toro region but also transforms the wines so they are more welcomed in your mouth.” Jesus's expertise in managing the old vines and his dedication to quality have earned him a reputation as one of the leading winemakers in the industry.

Perfect Pairings

Priot to commencing the tasting we were greeted with “the most generous expression of champagne,” a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée 172ème Édition as we enjoyed 5Js Iberian ham which was expertly hand carved in front of our very eyes. Krug Grande Cuvée 172ème Édition is a blend of 146 wines from 11 different years. The youngest is from the year 2016 and the oldest dates back to 1998.

Throughout the lunch, each wine was expertly paired with dishes that highlighted their unique characteristics. 

Numanthia

The signature complexity of Numanthia 2023, 2019 and 2018 (available from a range of UK stockists at £50 a bottle) accompanied grilled octopus with ‘patata revolcona’ paprika mashed potatoes with octopus, pancetta and piparra peppers.

I had always thought of white wines when it came to pairing with octopus but given the meatiness and robustness of the octopus, these red wines were perfect.

All crafted from 100% Tempranillo Tinta de Toro grapes (from 70-100 years old vines) we were treated to the newest vintage, an unfinished 2023, which has seen 13 months in barrel (7 in barrel and 6 in foudre) compared to the 2004, which had 2 years.

Numanthia 2019 is supple and fresh, featuring sweet cherry and raspberry flavours with a lush fruit core. Despite the warm vintage, the tannins are well-managed, offering a balanced combination of ripeness and freshness. The wine is polished yet lively, expressing its terroir effectively. The 2019 vintage is characterised by its warmth and lush fruit, with well-managed tannins and a lively expression compared to the more polished 2018.

Numanthia 2018 was Jesús Jiménez's first vintage, marked by gentle maceration and smart tannin management. The mid-palate reveals a silky texture with sweet, warm berry flavours and a touch of freshness. The substantial tannins are well-hidden under the fruit, providing sleekness and length without any jamminess or over-ripeness. The wine balances freshness with the depth characteristic of Toro. The 2018 vintage introduces a polished approach with smart tannin management, offering a sleek and fresh profile compared to previous years.

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Termanthia

The iconic finesse of Termanthia 2016, 2015 and 2014 (also available from a range of UK stockists at £230 a bottle) accompanied Wellington de presa Iberica, which is a 100% acorn-fed Iberian shoulder Wellington with Amontillado jus, finishing with a selection of Spanish cheese and charcuterie.

Termanthia is a distinguished wine known for its finesse and intensity. This wine, also made from 100% Tempranillo Tinta de Toro grapes, comes from vines aged between 100 and 120 years old.

Termanthia 2016 benefits from a more balanced growing season combining richness with power. It showcases concentrated black cherry and blackberry flavours, complemented by robust tannins that add depth to the bold fruit. Still youthful, it possesses restrained power and excellent aging potential. The palate has a savoury edge with well-integrated oak. The 2016 vintage offers great balance and a savoury edge, with a more even growing season compared to the warmer 2015.

The Termanthia 2015 vintage is warmer and highly expressive, featuring powerful, ripe black cherry and blackberry flavours with subtle herbal notes. Despite its concentration and intensity, it avoids over-ripeness, with gentle extraction providing a sense of ease. The tannic grip on the finish suggests a long aging potential, capturing the region's power beautifully. The 2015 vintage is more expressive and riper compared to the 2014, with a warmer profile and gentle extraction.

On the nose the Termanthia 2014 reveals intense black cherry and blackcurrant aromas with a hint of spice. On the palate, it is complex and spice-laden, featuring stylish oak and refined yet intense black cherry flavours. The wine exhibits remarkable depth and intensity, with a polished finish that struggles to contain its inherent wildness. Even after 10 years, it remains tight and brooding, with good structure and freshness. It promises a long aging potential. Compared to previous vintages, the 2014 shows more complexity and a refined oak influence, moving away from the heavier Parker style.

These pairings enhanced the flavours of the wines, creating a harmonious balance between food and drink.

Whilst 90% of these wines are sold in Spain to the on-trade, you can buy them from a range of UK Stockist.

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Conclusion

Bodegas Numanthia, under the leadership of Julio Rodriguez and the craftsmanship of Jesus Jimenez, continues to uphold its legacy of resilience and excellence. These exceptional wines from Bodega Numanthia demonstrated the richness and complexity of Spanish viticulture, leaving a lasting impression on all who attended. Whether enjoyed on their own or paired with exquisite cuisine, Numanthia and Termanthia are true masterpieces that showcase the potential of Tempranillo Tinta de Toro grapes.