Imperial Treasure: A Regal Affair in the Heart of St James
Imperial Treasure
In Chinese culture, food is never just sustenance. It’s the heartbeat of social ritual, the thing that gathers families, marks milestones and keeps centuries-old traditions alive. From woks sizzling at dawn in busy street markets to lantern light falling on banquet tables at dusk, every bite tells a story.
Imperial Treasure Fine Chinese Cuisine tells its version in the heart of St James’s, inside the former Lloyds Bank building at 9 Waterloo Place. The soaring ceilings and floor-to-ceiling doors hint at the opulence within. Inside, white leather banquettes sit against deep onyx walls and dark wooden screens, an East-meets-West setting that manages to feel both intimate and lavish.
The pedigree is serious. Founded in 2004, the Imperial Treasure group now has more than 20 restaurants across Singapore, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Incheon, Paris and London, and over 50 accolades, Michelin stars among them. London has yet to earn its own star, but it did pick up a Michelin Plate in 2019.
On a semi-busy Saturday evening, I ordered the Imperial Set Menu, partly for its promise of a curated journey through the signatures, and partly because I have never once regretted letting a kitchen decide for me.
The journey began with a trio of dim sum, steamed and fried parcels that melted in the mouth. The first prawn-stuffed dumpling set the standard, and the rest kept up.
Then came the Signature Peking Duck, a quarter of it, glinting like polished mahogany. The skin crackled at the gentlest pressure and the meat underneath was unctuously tender. With paper-thin Mandarin pancakes, cucumber, spring onion and that inimitable hoisin, it was the dish of the night, and I could happily have eaten a second quarter. I did not ask. Dignity is a heavy burden.
A quiet interlude followed: diced seafood and beancurd in a thick, ivory broth. Plump scallops, sweet prawns and silken tofu drifted in a velvety consommé that felt like a warm hand on the shoulder, and it readied me for the richer dishes ahead.
The richest of them was the sautéed lobster with black truffle. Sweet lobster meat in a garlic-butter emulsion was tossed with truffle shavings, snap peas and carrots, and the earthy truffle and the sweet shellfish got on famously. It was indulgent enough that the beef tenderloin that followed had to work to keep up. It managed. The tender cubes came scattered with golden garlic chips that crackled with every bite, and the meat was rich but never heavy. The sautéed baby broccoli alongside was a palate cleanser in disguise, with more character than most vegetables on most menus.
No Cantonese banquet is complete without fried rice, and this one earned its place. Each grain was distinct and fluffy, studded with sweetcorn and bound in silken egg white (no yolk), with chopped tenderstem broccoli stalks for a fresh crunch. Then came dessert, a goji berry jelly with flecks of edible gold leaf and a fried sesame ball filled with sweet black sesame paste. The jelly was light and the sesame ball was gloriously hot, and together they made a tidy finish to eight courses.
I don’t usually have opinions about restaurant cocktails, but the bar here was determined to give me some. The Kyoto Kooler paired Konik’s Tail Vodka with Akashi-Tai Yuzushu, kiwi and matcha, and landed somewhere between sweet and earthy. The Hidden Treasure, with vodka, strawberry, pineapple and coconut, was a cheeky nod to the piña colada. The Piña Picante, a smoky-spicy blend of Ilegal Mezcal Joven, Tapatio Reposado, pineapple, citrus oleo and orgeat, kept me guessing in a good way. But the Asian Old Fashioned stole the show: Dalmore 15-year single malt, umeshu, snow chrysanthemum tea and orange bitters, a dignified nightcap.
From that first prawn-stuffed dumpling to the last amber-toned sip of the Asian Old Fashioned, the evening had a rhythm to it. Chinese fine dining here felt timeless without being stuffy, and new without trying too hard. I arrived hungry and left thoroughly looked after, which is a rarer combination than it should be.
The service deserves its own credit. Restaurant manager Richard Li greeted us with a gracious bow, a small flourish that set the tone, and Phatteera and the rest of the team seemed to know what we needed a moment before we did. Nobody hovered, and nobody had to be flagged down.
Whether you are entertaining clients, marking a milestone or simply in need of a little opulence in the middle of London, Imperial Treasure is a safe bet and a rather glamorous one. I suspect the Michelin star will arrive in due course, but there is no reason to wait for the inspectors. Book a table, bring an appetite, and save a little room for the sesame ball. I was already plotting my return before the bill arrived.
