Jeru: An Exploration of Mediterranean Cuisine in the Heart of Mayfair
Wagyu Rib Eye
Tucked away at 11 Berkeley Street, Jeru is what happens when Mediterranean charm puts on a very good suit. The lighting is dim, the furnishings are elegant, and there’s a faint air of exclusivity that stops short of snobbery. The decor pairs traditional Mediterranean motifs with sleek modern touches, and I’ll admit I was won over before I’d even sat down.
We arrived for an early dinner and were shown straight to our table along the main wall, facing the open kitchen. I’m a firm believer that the best seat in any restaurant is the one with a view of the chefs, and watching them prepare for the evening ahead was dinner theatre in its own right. The smell of fresh charcoal and grilling hung in the air, and my appetite was fully engaged long before the menu arrived. The staff were attentive without hovering and knew the menu well, which came in handy, as several ingredients were new to me and I wasn’t about to bluff my way through them. With a few well-judged recommendations in hand, I was ready.
Starters
We began with the chilli tuna ceviche, light and bright, bathed in citrus. The chilli arrived with real conviction but never overpowered the fish, balancing the acidity and keeping every bite interesting. It was a confident opener.
Then came the wood-fired potato bread with chickpea miso butter and truffle honey, which I suspect is the dish I’ll be thinking about for weeks. The bread was warm and smoky, with a soft, pillowy centre made for spreading. The butter was rich and savoury, and the truffle honey added a gentle sweetness that tied it together. Comfort food rarely gets this dressed up and still feels like comfort food.
The grilled octopus was the third standout. Octopus is a dish that so often ends in rubber, so I always order it with one eyebrow raised. Here, the eyebrow came down. It was tender, lightly charred on the outside and quietly smoky throughout, and it sat beautifully alongside the spiced langoustine and chickpea ragu. Every element was seasoned with a steady hand, and I found myself scraping the plate for the last of the ragu.
Mains
The 400-day grain-fed wagyu ribeye was the centrepiece, and it earned the title. The marbling was exquisite and the meat was meltingly tender, with a richness that needed no help. The seasoning was restrained, letting the quality of the cut speak for itself, which is exactly what you want from a kitchen that knows what it’s doing. I don’t say this lightly, but it was one of the best steaks I’ve eaten in London.
If beef isn’t your thing, or if you’re simply the sort who likes to order two mains (no judgement), the slow-cooked Welsh lamb shoulder is a must. It was so soft it surrendered at the first touch of a fork, and the puffed pearl barley and pickled turnip were a clever pairing: the barley added a delicate crunch, and the turnip brought a sharp, bright note that cut through the richness.
The sides deserve a mention too. The grilled asparagus was fresh and crisp, scattered with edible petals that made a vegetable feel like an occasion. The batata harra was the real scene-stealer, bringing a welcome kick of spice to the humble potato and proving that the humble potato can be much more than a supporting act.
Cocktails
Now for the one area where Jeru didn’t quite land. The menu is varied, with creative twists on classics like the Espresso Martini alongside more inventive concoctions that fit the restaurant’s culinary style. The drinks looked the part, with fresh garnishes and elegant glassware, but for a neighbourhood that takes its cocktails seriously, they felt distinctly average. Passable, even, which is exactly what I did with them. Mayfair has set a high bar, and these didn’t clear it.
Dessert
Dessert is where the kitchen redeemed itself in style. Jeru’s take on the Baked Alaska was a proper showstopper: the meringue was expertly torched, leaving a crisp golden shell around cool, creamy ice cream. It looked spectacular and tasted even better, and it was a deliciously theatrical way to end the meal.
The Verdict
Jeru brings real imagination to Mediterranean cooking. Whether you’re craving wagyu or something fresh from the sea, each dish is carefully composed and confidently executed, which is a credit to Executive Chef Roy Ner, whose creativity gives traditional ingredients a thoroughly contemporary spin. The ambiance and service elevate the evening, and the food does the rest. The cocktails may not match Mayfair’s lofty standards, but order a glass of wine instead and you won’t be disappointed. For a special occasion, or simply a very good night out, Jeru is well worth a visit.
