Kanpai Classic Soho: A Wagyu-Fuelled Symphony of Smoke, Style and Sublime Flavour

Right in the heart of Wardour Street, where Soho’s energy pulses through every neon sign and restaurant window, Kanpai Classic Soho stands out - not just for its sleek exterior but for what lies within: a bold reimagining of Japanese Wagyu dining. And when I say "reimagining", I mean it quite literally. This isn’t just a place for a good meal - it’s a steakhouse with a philosophy, a precision-crafted performance of meat, fire and flair, combining the elegance of a Kyoto tea ceremony with just enough Soho swagger to make it feel like the most exciting seat in town.

Originally founded in Taiwan back in 1999 (back when mobile phones had antennae and nobody had heard of Wagyu unless they were a serious beef buff), Kanpai Group has spent the last 25 years refining their signature Yakiniku experience. Their journey from night-market roots to Michelin-starred marvels is the stuff of restaurant folklore. In fact, their Shanghai outpost was the first Yakiniku restaurant ever to earn a Michelin star - twice, no less. Now, with Kanpai Classic Soho, the group has brought their meticulously marbled, melt-in-your-mouth expertise to the heart of London. And oh, what a debut it is.

At its core, this is what they call a “new-style Japanese steakhouse”. The phrase might sound enigmatic, but after a few hours immersed in the experience, it starts to make perfect sense. Imagine a Kyoto grill master trained at Le Cordon Bleu, teaming up with an obsessive butcher and an interior designer with a taste for dark interiors, soft lighting and quiet luxury. That’s the energy.

Grilling takes place tableside, in classic Yakiniku fashion, and each cut of Wagyu is treated with the kind of reverence usually reserved for rare wine or classical instruments. The team here doesn’t just serve steak - they curate it. From the famed Miyazaki “Himawari” Wagyu, selected via an exacting two-step grading process, to the rare and elegant Moriawase cuts, every slice arrives like a trophy: beautifully marbled, gracefully presented and sizzled to perfection before your eyes.

Faye, our server and in-house Wagyu sage, was a guiding light throughout. With knowledge and effortless precision, she explained the origins of each cut, the grilling techniques and even the flavour profiles - all with the relaxed confidence of someone with many years of expertise behind her.

We began, rather decadently, with Schrenckii Dauricus caviar - its briny, nutty salinity offset beautifully by the toasted brightness of a chilled Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve Champagne. Together, they were the amuse-bouche equivalent of a tuxedo and evening gown: timeless, elegant and perfectly complimentary.

But then came the main act: the Wagyu Yakiniku feast featuring six different cuts of premium A5 Himawari and Moriawase beef. Each piece told a different story of texture and taste - some buttery and delicate, others rich and robust. The Karubi was meltingly tender, while the Picanha had a satisfying chew and deep umami depth. The Oyster Blade cut was also a standout, with a gentle sweetness and a whisper of smoke from the grill.

Every cut was grilled to order, seared for mere seconds on each side under Faye’s watchful eye, her timing as precise and effortless as a conductor’s cue. She explained how different fats reacted to flame - why one cut needed a flash of heat, while another thrived with a slower approach - and how best to savour each one: sometimes with a pinch of salt, sometimes dipped lightly in house condiments and, occasionally, just as it was.

Together, the selection told a story of the whole animal - not just the flashy sirloins and ribeyes but the nuanced and characterful cuts that rarely get their due in Western steakhouses. It’s a celebration of balance and variety, of restraint and indulgence in equal measure. And while many upscale menus can feel like an arms race of extravagance, here, the focus remains delightfully clear: honour the cow, respect the craft, and let the beef do the talking.

Eating “the whole cow,” so to speak, might sound overwhelming, but thanks to thoughtful pacing and perfectly judged portions, the experience felt more like a guided tasting than a meat marathon - even if our belts needed a loosen around the third round of meat!

Between grills, we ventured into the small plates - a series of joyful diversions that could have made up a meal on their own. The Wagyu spring rolls were golden, crisp and packed with savoury depth. Wagyu gyozas were soft, pillowy and filled with finely balanced richness. The Wagyu truffle tallow chips were simple but unforgettable - the kind of thing you crave again the next day.

Another excellent dish was the Wagyu temaki sushi - a hand roll of Kobujime salmon with salmon roe, each bite a layered harmony of brine, fat and fragrance. So pretty, yet so satisfying.

For a gentle reset, the chicken Kamameshi offered a homestyle interlude: Hokkaido’s premium Nanatsuboshi rice, served alongside a comforting bonito broth. Simple, soulful and just what was needed before we were served a sample of the signature Wagyu curry - velvety, aromatic and rich enough that it could easily warrant a return trip on its own.

Dessert, despite the considerable carnivorous journey that preceded it, was more than an afterthought. The souffle cheesecake was creamy and indulgent, whilst the chocolate fondant was gooey and rich without being cloying. We paired these with cocktails - the “Blossom” and “Green Tea Geisha” - both beautifully balanced, gently floral and refreshing enough to cut through the richness of the meal without stealing the show.

If we had one quibble (and it’s a minor one), the wine pairing options could benefit from a bit more depth or guidance. With Wagyu this nuanced, the right reds - or even sake - could unlock a whole new level of flavour. Something to finesse, perhaps, in what’s otherwise a remarkably assured offering.

Dining at Kanpai Classic Soho is an experience best described as part theatre, part ritual and part indulgent joyride through the very best beef Japan has to offer. It’s rare to find a restaurant so committed to ingredient integrity and craftsmanship, whilst also managing to feel relaxed and entirely unpretentious.

Yes, it’s a steakhouse. But it’s also a love letter to Wagyu, a reinterpretation of Eastern technique for a Western audience and a quietly confident reminder that, in the right hands, the simplest ingredients - meat, flame, salt - can still astonish.

So if you find yourself in Soho and you’re in the mood for something special, skip the predictable pasta and standard sushi. Instead, come prepared to savour, sip and sizzle. And maybe don’t plan anything too energetic afterward.

https://www.kanpaiclassic.co.uk/

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