Lunch with Château d’Esclans at The Fat Badger, Notting Hill
Chateau d'Esclan
Rosé has long since shrugged off its poolside stereotype, and nowhere was that more evident than at a Château d’Esclans lunch at The Fat Badger, Notting Hill — a setting that felt deliberately understated, allowing both food and wine to speak with clarity.
The lineup told a precise story of ambition and evolution: Les Clans 2022, Garrus 2022, and Château d’Esclans 2022 — three expressions that firmly position Provençal rosé in the world of serious, gastronomic wine.
Château d’Esclans: redefining rosé’s ceiling
Château d’Esclans has done more than elevate rosé — it has fundamentally reframed what the category can be. Under the direction of Sacha Lichine, the estate has championed old-vine Grenache, meticulous vineyard work, and an unapologetic use of oak to create wines designed not for casual sipping, but for the table and the cellar.
This is rosé made with the mindset of fine white Burgundy: low yields, precision winemaking, texture over aromatics, and an emphasis on ageing potential. Garrus, in particular, remains one of the most influential rosés ever produced — a wine that challenged the market’s assumptions and, in doing so, raised the ceiling for the entire region.
The Food: chef-led, produce-driven, wine-aware
At The Fat Badger, the kitchen is led by head chef George Williams whose approach is ingredient-first and quietly confident, favouring clarity of flavour over unnecessary embellishment. It’s a pub and restaurant overlooking the iconic Portobello Road. Their first floor turns into a dining room at lunchtime and in the evening head up to the second floor (where we had our private lunch) where the open kitchen and bookable counter seats create a more intimate space for dinner. There’s no menu – instead you receive 3 snacks, a starter, main and dessert - letting the chef cook for you.
The menu is deliberately flexible — seasonal, concise, and built around produce that can adapt to the demands of wine-led dining.
Rather than rigid courses, dishes are designed to sit comfortably across pairings, allowing wines to evolve in the glass while the food provides contrast, texture, and balance. It’s a style of cooking that understands restraint — and one that works particularly well when the wines themselves carry weight and complexity.
George and his team exude absolute calmness as they prepare every dish in the open kitchen, no rushing, screaming, swearing, but positive banter and encouragement. This approach and experience speak volumes about their level of confidence and competence.
We began with soda bread and butter, followed by a root vegetable soup with Cashel Blue, its earthy sweetness and gentle salinity setting the tone. A rabbit and bacon taco brought savoury depth, while Cornish tuna with citrus introduced lift and freshness.
Mains moved into deeper territory with venison chop and John Dory, served alongside Hasselback potatoes and farm salad, before a nostalgic but carefully judged finish of doughnuts and ice creams.
Nothing tried to dominate; everything was composed to collaborate.
Les Clans 2022 — the bridge wine
Served with the opening courses, Les Clans 2022 is made from Grenache and Vermentino and aged entirely in French oak — a detail that immediately shapes its profile.
Stone fruit, subtle spice, and a creamy mid-palate gave it the weight to handle Cashel Blue with ease, while its acidity kept the pairing focused. With the rabbit and bacon taco, the wine revealed a more savoury, almost Burgundian character. This is rosé as a true table wine — exotic, layered, structured, and built with longevity in mind.
Garrus 2022 — the statement
If Les Clans is the bridge, Garrus is the destination.
Sourced from a single vineyard of 100-year-old Grenache vines and aged in large new French oak barrels, Garrus arrived with quiet authority. Concentrated yet precise, it delivered ripe peach, dried herbs, and a long, creamy finish that unfolded slowly.
Paired with venison, the wine’s power matched the dish’s intensity, while its freshness prevented heaviness. It behaved less like a rosé and more like a grand white — or even a light red — demanding attention and rewarding patience.
Château d’Esclans 2022 — the versatile closer
The final wine, Château d’Esclans 2022, blended stainless steel and barrel fermentation to produce something more immediately approachable, yet still refined.
Fresh, textured, and quietly confident, it moved effortlessly across the later stages of the meal and shone as conversation flowed. Its balance and versatility underlined why Esclans remains such a benchmark: consistency without complacency, elegance without dilution.
The takeaway
This lunch wasn’t about spectacle. It was about intent.
At The Fat Badger, Château d’Esclans demonstrated that rosé can handle blue cheese, game, oak, and winter menus without losing identity or freshness. These are wines for white tablecloths, thoughtful cooking, and long conversations — not just summer terraces.
If you still think rosé is seasonal, lunches like this prove the category has moved on — decisively. And if you are looking for a super Valentine’s Day recommendation then head over to the Fat Badger.
