Slopes, Spas, and Slow Living at Naturhotel Forsthofgut

Arriving at Naturhotel Forsthofgut feels like stepping into a perfectly balanced world  - one where the warmth of a family-run retreat meets the refined elegance of a five-star hotel. Nestled at the foot of the Asitz Mountain in Leogang, it’s the kind of place where the air carries the scent of pine and wood, mingling with the aroma of freshly baked bread in the morning, and where hospitality is more than just a service; it’s second nature. The Schmuck family has called this land home for five generations, transforming what was once a forestry operation into a sanctuary that reflects their deep connection to nature. Today, it is Christoph and Christina Schmuck who run the hotel, while Christoph’s parents remain an ever-present part of its legacy, ensuring that tradition and innovation exist in harmony.

The rooms and suites echo this philosophy, bringing the outdoors in with natural materials, warm tones, and textures that invite you to slow down. The Garden Loft Suites, with their floor-to-ceiling windows and private saunas, are an immersion in nature itself, while the classic alpine rooms offer a sense of home, where woollen blankets, soft lighting, and handcrafted wood details create an instant cocoon of comfort. In summer 2025, the stunning new Mountain Loft Suites launched, each boasting two floors with private saunas and hot tubs looking out over the Leoganger mountains.  

Mornings begin with the soft clink of cutlery against porcelain and the scent of freshly baked sourdough drifting through the dining room. The breakfast spread is a quiet triumph of local ingredients - freshly churned butter, honey still in the comb, local cheeses, an entire room of baked goods and eggs however you like them. It’s the kind of leisurely start that makes you wonder why all mornings aren’t like this.

Outside, the mountains are bathed in soft morning light, and after meeting our guide from the SkiSzene Altenberger Ski School, we set off for a morning of skiing. It’s a 200-metre glide from the hotel to the Asitzbahn gondola, which whisks you up into the vast Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn, one of Austria’s largest ski areas. With two ski runs leading straight back to the hotel, the return journey is effortless. The terrain caters to all styles - smooth groomers, tree-lined descents, and deep powder for those who know where to look. There’s a rhythm to a ski day here: exhilarating descents interspersed with leisurely coffee or gluhwein stops at picturesque mountain huts. 

A midday break calls for Hendl Fischerei, the sleek-yet-rustic mountain club perched high above Leogang. Famous for its rotisserie chicken, served with crispy golden skin and paired with a crisp glass of Grüner Veltliner, it’s the kind of place where après-ski begins long before the last run. With panoramic views over the slopes, a laid-back soundtrack, and just the right amount of alpine glamour, it’s easy to linger here a little too long before making the final ski down.

By early afternoon, legs burning and faces wind-whipped, we retreat to waldSPA, Forsthofgut’s 5,700 m² spa that manages to cater seamlessly to both adults seeking serenity and families with excitable children in tow - without either group feeling like they’re compromising. Families have their own dedicated space, complete with a 70-meter water slide and child-friendly pools, while those craving silence and stillness can disappear into the 3,500 m² adults-only spa, where saunas, steam baths, and the outdoor onsen-style pool - maintained at a constant 42℃ - provide a restorative contrast to the cold mountain air.There’s a rhythm to it all - heat, ice, water, rest.

The floating Finnish sauna sits within the natural bathing lake, perfect for those willing to take the plunge into icy water - a practice that floods the body with endorphins, boosts circulation, and, if nothing else, makes you feel alive in a way few things do. The Bergstille relaxation room, with its plush loungers and panoramic views of the mountains, is the final step - a place to do nothing but let time slip away with herbal tea in hand. A massage is always a good idea after a day on the slopes, and the signature meTIME massage does exactly what it promises - loosening tight legs, easing out tension, and restoring a sense of balance. It’s methodical and precise, leaving muscles softened and the mind blissfully blank.

By dinner, the air outside is sharp with frost, and inside, the atmosphere is warm, humming with the quiet contentment that follows a day well spent. ‘silva’, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, is a tribute to the forest that surrounds Forsthofgut, both in philosophy and on the plate. Inspired by the hotel’s origins as a forestry station, the mantra ‘Taste the Forest’ runs through every aspect of the dining experience. Executive chef Michael Helfrich, who honed his craft in Austria, Switzerland, and at Copenhagen’s world-renowned Noma, crafts menus that showcase the wild flavours of the region - smoking, fermenting, and preserving to enhance the depth of ingredients. Guests can choose between the Forest menu, where dishes like braised roe deer shoulder with preserved rowan berries, winder apple and ‘Erdäpfelnidei’ celebrate the richness of the land, or the Meadow menu, a carefully curated selection of vegetarian and vegan plates such as sautéed winter vegetables with pickled mushrooms and potato roulade. The space itself mirrors the woodland outside - earthy tones of green and brown, cool stone, and warm wood furnishings create a cocoon-like atmosphere, where the wine pairings are as thoughtfully composed as the dishes themselves. We begin with a glass of champagne and an amuse-bouche before moving on to delicate plates of arctic char, pike perch stew, venison and veal, each dish a meticulous layering of textures and flavours. The open kitchen adds a touch of theatre, the clatter of pans and sizzle of sauces reminding us that good food is as much about movement and energy as it is about taste. ‘silva’ is not just a restaurant, but a deeply immersive experience in nature’s rhythms. 

For a more relaxed evening, 1617 offers a different kind of indulgence - sharing plates designed for conviviality. We opt for a spread of locally-sourced fish, beef, and duck, each dish carefully dissected at the table. The food here feels more rustic, more rooted in tradition, and there’s something deeply satisfying about passing plates back and forth, trying a little of everything.

Beyond the spa and skiing, Forsthofgut is a place that understands family. There’s a riding school, where guests can saddle up and explore the landscape on horseback, and an ever-present sense that while luxury is paramount, it never comes at the expense of warmth or welcome. The Schmuck family’s presence is palpable - this is not a corporate-run hotel, but a generational passion project, where every detail reflects their love for this land and their home.

Forsthofgut is the kind of place that lingers in the mind long after you leave - not because it overwhelms with grandeur, but because it does everything just right. The skiing, the spa, the food, the effortless balance between adventure and rest. It’s a place to reset, to revel in the cold mountain air, and to remember that the best trips aren’t about checking things off a list, but about finding a rhythm that feels, even just for a few days, like the way life should be.

Approx 1 ¼ hr from Salzburg Airport by car

https://www.forsthofgut.at/en/

https://www.saalfelden-leogang.com/en