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Twice. The number of times I thought I had been to Dublin previously, but I was wrong. I have a habit of that. Having been a wine merchant and writer for many years, I am convinced the cranial sub-section of my brain containing memory has diminished over time. Does anyone else feel the same? I was telling a friend about my trip, and how it was only my second trip to Ireland when they reminded me of a wedding I had photographed there.

We are all fine law-abiding citizens. Are we not? Of course we are. But let’s not kid ourselves  -  one of the attractions of the whisky business is that it has its roots in activities which once were just shy of the squeaky clean. Quite a bit shy to be honest. Robert Burns, who fantasised about the devil making off with the customs man, knew all about this, being employed as an exciseman himself.