Davids's Drink Diaries - Issue 29

Autumn has a way of coaxing us toward comfort with the warmth of a slow roast (I cooked lamb shanks over the weekend), the glow of a fire, and the kind of wines that bring a little light to darker evenings. This month’s selection travels from the Provençal slopes of the Rhône to the limestone valleys of the Loire, pausing in Rioja and Germany’s Pfalz along the way. Each bottle offers something distinct: the sunlit charm of Les Dauphins’ white, the confident modernity of Ramón Bilbao’s Crianza, the razor-sharp clarity of Von Buhl’s Riesling, and the festive sparkle of two Loire crémants that prove bubbles don’t need to come from Champagne to impress. And for those with a taste for something stronger, the Whisky Show 2025 provided a fascinating counterpoint, a gathering of limited releases that showcase distilleries old and new pushing boundaries while celebrating their roots.

Wine

Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône White 2024 - £10 from Waitrose

From the southern Rhône Valley comes a white wine that feels like bottled sunshine. Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône White 2024 captures the aromatic lift and weight of Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc grown on clay-limestone soils around Tulette.
The range nods to the spirit of the roaring twenties, when the cafés of Paris were alive with laughter and the Rhône’s cooperatives were just beginning to take shape.

Freshness from the mountains and warmth from the Provençal plains combine with the mistral wind to keep the vines healthy and the flavours vivid. The result is a white with peach and apricot fruit, floral notes and a soft, generous texture balanced by citrus brightness. Perfect with roast chicken, creamy pasta or goat’s cheese tart. It is a wine that brings a little Provençal glow to an English autumn evening.

Ramón Bilbao Crianza 2022 - £11.25 from Tesco

Few Rioja wines manage to feel both familiar and new, yet Ramón Bilbao’s Crianza does exactly that. At around £11 it remains one of the most dependable bottles on the high street.
Winemaker Rodolfo Bastida has spent more than twenty-five years refining its style, focusing on fruit purity and freshness rather than oak weight. Grapes are sourced from vineyards across Rioja, from the sandy clay of Rioja Alta to the loam and alluvial soils of Rioja Oriental. Each plot is fermented separately before ageing for fourteen months in American oak, giving a subtle frame without overshadowing the fruit.

In the glass it shows bright ruby colour and aromas of plum and cherry with a touch of spice. The palate is lively and balanced, ideal for grilled lamb, chorizo stew or simple tapas. This is modern Rioja with tradition in its bones and freshness at its heart.

Von Buhl Bone Dry Riesling 2024 - £16.99 from Laithwaites

The clue is in the name. Bone Dry from Germany’s historic Reichsrat von Buhl estate is as precise as they come. The skull label glows under UV light, making it a fun talking point for Halloween, but what’s inside the bottle is pure Pfalz elegance.
Winemaker Simone Figerio farms organically, crafting Rieslings that reflect the sandstone soils of the Mittelhaardt. The 2024 vintage shows intense stone fruit, lemon zest and a clean mineral line that runs from start to finish. At 12 percent alcohol it’s light, linear and mouth-watering, the kind of dry white that appeals as much to Sauvignon Blanc drinkers as Riesling devotees.

It’s an ideal match for seafood, sushi or a crisp salad, though it is equally good simply on its own while waiting for the trick-or-treaters to knock. Available from Laithwaites at £16.99, it is a reminder that Germany still leads the way when it comes to dry white wine with real character.

Gratien & Meyer Cremant De Loire Brut - £13.50 from Tesco

Gratien & Meyer, founded in 1864 in Saumur, produces sparkling wines with finesse that far outstrips their modest prices. This Brut NV is made by the traditional method from Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, aged for three years on the lees to build depth and creaminess.

It is a pale gold with fine bubbles and aromas of citrus, white blossom and brioche. The palate brings apple, pear and almond with a mineral freshness that lingers. Pair it with oysters, soft cheese or simply as an aperitif. It’s an easy drinker, that although a Brut, does have a sweetness to it. An ideal festive sparkler. 

Langlois-Chateau 'L'Extra par Langlois' Crémant de Loire Brut - £15 from Majestic

Another sparkling star from the Loire, L’Extra par Langlois is produced by Langlois-Château, a house with deep roots in the region and ownership by the Bollinger family. Made entirely from white grapes, it spends at least a year on its lees, developing subtle brioche and chalky complexity.
Delicate bubbles carry aromas of pear and white peach, leading to a taut palate with green apple, citrus and mineral poise. It’s the sort of wine that elevates a weekend brunch or a seafood dinner without demanding attention. There’s polish here, but also purity – a sparkling wine that reflects both the Loire’s limestone soils and Langlois’s century of savoir-faire.

Whisky

At this year’s Whisky Show 2025, a selection of limited-edition bottlings graced the shelves of The Whisky Exchange — each one offering a distinctive narrative of terroir, maturation and creative spirit. Below, I explore their profiles, provenance and appeal.

Glen Scotia 2014 (10 yrs), 55.9%
As you may have gathered, I am a huge fan of Glen Scotia and this first-fill bourbon-barrel single-cask delivers a surprising note of smoke layered over cooked apples and brioche.  The palate mixes sweetness with smoke, baked apple and vanilla custard. There is a surprising amount of fruit lingering in the background. 

Boann 2021, 4 yrs Triple Distilled  Oloroso hogshead, 52%
Made in a single-pot-still, guided by historian Fionnán O’Connor, using a 19th-century mash bill. It has a wonderful rich colour and a nose to match. I got old fashioned orange marmalade with cereal grain and a hint of clove. On the palate it is decadent, full, spicy with layers of flavours and a persistent length. There is a lot of fruit and hints of chocolate orange, with the influence of the oloroso cask. One to explore for both heritage and fresh vibrancy.

Ki One 2021, Cask #0200, 57.1%
South Korea’s ambitious malt maker steps into UK exclusivity with this single-cask release. Barley grown entirely in Korea with maturation in new American oak gives a very alluring nose of marzipan and warm buttered wholemeal bread. The palate conceals its ABV well, although you can feel the heat. It is spicy, with notes of candied peel, vanilla, reduced citrus juice and good butter.

Benriach 2012 (13 yrs), Adelphi Selection, 58.6%
A collaboration between The Whisky Exchange and Adelphi Distillery, matured in a first-fill PX sherry hogshead (cask #38). This has a very deep mahogany colour and is full of the aromas you would expect. Think Christmas cake and baking spices in a glass. In the mouth there is a mixture of sweet and dry. I love how it is hard to distinguish. This is high abv and you can feel the alcohol (which I enjoy), but you might like to add a few drops of water to your dram. It is full of the typical fruit associated with a sherry hogshead and veers toward the Cream Sherry side of things. 

Kanosuke 2019 (5 yrs), The Heart Cut x Kanosuke, ex-bourbon quarter cask, 54% (50 cl)
This is Japan’s edition for The Heart Cut, and proves that whisky need not be old to achieve excellence. The nose is honey, ginger biscuits and vanilla, layered with fruit. The palate is a little hot, but has a lot of depth to it. I found layers of stem ginger, vanilla ice cream, digestives, hazelnuts and honey. 

Benrinnes 1992 (33 yrs), Rare Find, 51.6%
A delightful long-mature example bottled by Gleann Mòr (cask #8884). The refill hogshead ageing gives this whisky finesse. This is the oldest expression of Berinnes I have tried, so a treat. I find Speyside whisky ages with finesse with good wood management and this is a perfect example. It is light in terms of colour, which is proof that colour is no indication of age. The nose is layered with a mixture of orchard fruit, in particular pears, vanilla and apple rind. The palate is powerful and elegant, almost youthful in a way. The flavours of baked apple, custard and baking spice permeate and linger for minutes. 

Tormore 2009, Legacy Cask, 55.1%
From a first-fill bourbon barrel, this smoky-light Speyside releases flavours of a fruit crumble where the fruit has been cooked in a BBQ. I like it! The palate is all about pear drops and keeps you coming back for me.