David's Drink Diaries - Issue 18

Torabhaig

The Torabhaig distillery on Skye never ceases to excite me. As you may have read previously, I have tasted all the releases of their Legacy series and loved each one. However, I had never had the opportunity to taste their distillery exclusives - until now. This changed at the wonderful Merchant House in London, where Neil Macleod hosted a small group of us.

The moment I arrived, I could sense this was no ordinary night. The upstairs bar was eerily quiet, with only a sign pointing us to a downstairs bar. Curiosity piqued, I followed its lead, where I was met by James, the ever-charming PR, who guided me to a hidden, intimate bar, accessible only through a small (unused!) restroom. As I stepped into the secret bar, I was greeted with a welcome cocktail, setting the perfect tone for a fantastic evening.

I love these small, intimate tastings. They provide a unique opportunity to appreciate the passion behind the brand. The setting was perfect: dim lighting, comfortable seating, and a group of fellow whisky writers, all filled with anticipation. We sat as Neil introduced each exclusive release, sharing fascinating stories and insights about the distillery's journey and the unique characteristics of each whisky. Each time I listen to Neil I learn so much. This time it was that the longer the molecular chain the more complex the whisky. Esterification is the reaction between ethanol (the alcohol in whisky) and various organic acids present in the mash and the cask during fermentation and ageing. You have to wait for these to marry together. It is fascinating. 

Tasting the distillery exclusives was a real pleasure. I particularly enjoyed the Club Reserve 6 at 61.4%, aged in Sessile oak previously used for Cognac barrels. It showed caramel notes and was full and spicy. I found stewed ripe apples, BBQ flavours, some citrus, and meaty notes and along with others agreed that it was like Twiglets!

The Club Reserve 5-year-old Barbados rum barrel at 60.7%, was very light in colour. Soft. Tropical from the 3rd use Doorly barrel. Smoke, rum and dark chocolate. 

The “heavy toast” French Oak, at 63.2% was excellent. Full of BBQ flavours and even bananas making an appearance. 

Perhaps my favourite was the Reserve 2023 Skye Porter cask at 58.1% which was savoury with some of the porter notes coming through. It was creamy, almost like Guinness, which I particularly enjoyed. 

I have not yet been able to visit the distillery on the Isle of Skye in person yet, but given the quality of these expressions, I shall certainly being taking a large suitcase when I do, to bring home numerous bottles. They really are that good and interesting, becoming a firm favourite distillery of mine. 

Berry Bros & Rudd Glens and Valleys

As you will know from previous editions, I am a huge fan of Berry Bros & Rudd. This year they have taken a new direction and instead of releasing their Exceptional cask series, have introduced a new series called “The Odyssey”. This carefully curated single-cask selection focuses on distilleries you rarely encounter as stand-alone bottles. Therefore they offer an almost unique opportunity to sample whisky that would ordinarily be destined for blends.

Titled "A Sense of Place," the collection's inaugural release, "Glens and Valleys” is a tribute to Scotland's legendary terrains. It celebrates the nation's iconic landscapes, from the rugged foothills of the Grampian mountains to the serene Valley of the Garioch. Each bottle is a homage to the pristine natural water sources that have long been essential to Scotland’s unparalleled distilling heritage.

With “The Odyssey”, Berry Bros & Rudd aim to offer an immersive experience, allowing them to explore the rich, diverse terroirs that make Scotland’s spirits so unique. This release is just the beginning. “The Odyssey” collection will continue with "Coasts and Shores” in the Autumn. This second release promises to further explore Scotland's varied landscapes, diving into the coastal regions known for their briny, maritime whiskies.

I have listed the whiskies and their availability below:-

Exclusively at www.bbr.com: Blair Athol 2011, Glen Garioch 2011, Dailuaine 2010, Glen Ord 2007, and Glenlossie 2011.

Exclusively to selected UK retail partners: Blair Athol 2011, Glenburgie 2008, Glendullan 2011, and Linkwood 2010.

Available across both selected UK and international retailers: Blair Athol 2010, Glen Elgin 2012, Glen Elgin 2008, and Glen Garioch 2011.

Exclusively to international retail partners: Blair Athol 2009, Dailuaine 2010, Glen Garioch 2011, Glen Ord 2007, Glen Spey 2009, Glendullan 2011, Glenlossie 2011, and Linkwood 2010.

Kanosuke Distillery

Situated along Japan’s longest sand beach, Fukiagehama, Kanosuke Distillery was established in 2017. Located in Kagoshima Prefecture, on the southwestern tip of Kyushu Island, the distillery overlooks a striking 50-kilometre stretch of white sand dunes, providing an stunning location.

The distillery benefits from the serene yet occasionally fierce environment of the East China Sea. In the summer, the sea is calm and tranquil, while winter brings gusts of wind that whip up the ocean waters, contributing to the distinct climate. Nestled at about 7 meters above sea level, the distillery enjoys an annual average temperature of 16.9℃, with the extremes ranging from -4.0℃ to 35.1℃. This variation in temperature and the region’s abundant rainfall (2033.0 mm annually) creates a perfect setting for whisky maturation. Moreover, the area's crystal-clear groundwater, naturally filtered through the Shirasu Plateau, provides the distillery with pure, pristine water.

They have chosen to use three pot stills, whilst most distilleries of similar size typically will use two. These stills, each with varying neck shapes and lyne arm angles, provide greater flexibility in the distillation process. By distilling in the different stills and blending the resulting spirits, Kanosuke say they can craft a whisky with richer, more complex flavours and aromas. The stills are housed in a modern two-story, U-shaped building, where visitors are encouraged.

I thought all three of these to be very interesting, and certainly worth being on any serious whisky lovers radar. 

Kanosuke Double Distillery Japanese Whisky 53% - £98.95 from The Whisky Exchange

This has been made at two distilleries in Kagoshima. It comprises of a pot still barley whisky distilled at Hioki, and single malt distilled at Kanosuke. Both spirits have been aged at Kanosuke.  This whisky opens with vanilla and apricots with a subtle touch of mint. The palate is rich and well-rounded, of cinnamon, black tea, orange, and clove, with a slight creaminess. It finishes with a hint of oak, rich fruit notes, and just the right amount of bitterness to keep things interesting. 

Kanosuke Hioki Pot Still Japanese Whisky 51% - £94.95 from The Whisky Exchange

On the nose I found rich Madagascan vanilla and tropical fruits such as pineapple and mango, balanced with a hint of citrus zest. The palate is powerful yet smooth, with flavours of caramel, cooked spiced apples, and even dark chocolate. I then got cinnamon and a little spice to finish. 

Kanosuke Single Malt Japanese Whisky 48% - £89.95 from The Whisky Exchange

The nose was full of honey, vanilla, pear and apple with almond and citrus at the back. The palate was like an apricot tart with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. Again, I found hints of chocolate, but this time milk. Coffee and toffee also made an appearance. 

Lindores

Lindores Thiron 2024 49.4% -  £63 from Lindores Abbey

Located in Fife, Scotland, the distillery was established in 2017, but its site is famous as the birthplace of Scotch whisky. Lindores Abbey itself, founded in 1191, is where the earliest recorded mention of whisky distillation in Scotland comes from, a 1494 entry in the Exchequer Rolls of Scotland referencing Friar John Cor producing “aqua vitae” for King James IV.

While distilling ceased for centuries, the distillery’s modern revival was initiated by the McKenzie Smith family, who purchased the site and embarked on a project to both preserve the abbey’s ruins and build a state-of-the-art distillery. The distillery is located on the same land that hosted whisky-making monks more than 500 years ago, blending ancient tradition with contemporary production methods.

Fermentation is notably long, lasting from 90 to 115 hours, which allows for a more complex flavour profile to develop. As a new distillery, Lindores Abbey's whisky is still in its infancy, with the distillery producing its first Single Malt, in 2021. There have been many subsequent releases with the newest being a limited edition, annual release called Thiron. 

This expression can trace itself back to  2018, when Drew and Helen McKenzie Smith, the founders, arranged for a selection of casks to be made from French oak trees in the forests surrounding the village of Thiron-Gardais. They had travelled there as it was the birthplace of the monks who founded Lindores Abbey. This provided oak for barrels that was unique to them, so a wonderful opportunity for you to try something new.

The 2024 release has been bottled at a very nice 49.4% abv. As you might expect there are the usual suspects of vanilla and caramel on the nose, but also present is a touch of red fruits, honey and coffee. Alongside the Thiron oak, this has also been matured in red wine barriques and ex bourbon casks, which I feel have given great structure and an interesting flavour profile. It is on the drier side which I love, and full of damsons, stem ginger and dried figs on the palate. There is a pleasant spice running through it that binds all the flavours together. This whisky truly does have a story, and one that deserve exploring before it is sold out. 

Casa Noble Tequila

Founded in Jalisco, Mexico, the heartland of tequila production, the estate is located in the Tequila Valley, a region renowned for its ideal conditions for growing blue agave. This unique terroir, characterised by volcanic soil and high altitudes, imparts distinct flavours to the agave plants, which serve as the foundation of Casa Noble’s tequila.

The brand exclusively uses 100% blue Weber agave, which is cultivated for a minimum of seven years to reach optimal maturity. This patient, labour-intensive process ensures that the agave has developed the full range of flavours and sugars necessary for crafting a truly exceptional tequila.

Casa Noble was one of the first tequila brands to receive USDA Organic Certification. The agave used is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, and the entire process from planting to bottling is designed to minimise environmental impact.

The distillery also employs eco-friendly practices, such as using recycled materials in packaging and reusing organic waste from the agave plants. 

One of the unique features of Casa Noble is its triple distillation process. While many tequilas undergo two distillations, Casa Noble goes the extra step, believing that this third distillation brings out the purest expression of the agave. The result is a smoother, more refined spirit with enhanced clarity and depth of flavour.

They produce a diverse range of tequilas rom the crisp and vibrant Blanco to the rich and complex Añejo. The brand’s Reposado, aged in French white oak barrels for 364 days, strikes a perfect balance between the fresh agave flavours of the Blanco and the deeper, oaky notes found in the Añejo.

Casa Noble Blanco 40% - £61.95 from The Whisky Exchange

A fresh and vegetal nose that is grassy and herbaceous. The palate is, and I don’t like to use this term, smooth. It is soft, creamy and far removed from the gimmicky brands. It has a subtly about it that I like, a sophistication. You can happily sip this and appreciate it’s nuances. 

Casa Noble Reposado 40% - £76.75 from The Whisky Exchange

A reposado is a blanco that has been aged in oak barrels for 2-12 months. This, like whisky, allows the spirit to take on some of the flavours imparted from the wood. In this instance it has added vanilla, marzipan and cinnamon to the nose. It isn’t as herbaceous. Taste wise, the smoothness is still there but is has taken on delicious a toffee flavour and notes of chocolate. I even get hints of Terry chocolate orange and the sweetness you would expect from that. 

Casa Noble Anejo 40% - £76.75 from The Whisky Exchange

The herbaceous nose has come back alongside a healthy dose of green capsicum. There is also an earthiness to it. This feels more serious to me. The palate has that balance between the Blanco and Reposado and appeals to me the most. It is drier and offers more complexity. It kept me interested for longer with it’s depth of flavour. 

Casa Noble Marques Decassa Noble 40% - £215 from The Whisky Exchange

Expensive tequila to me gives the perception that it is a branding exercise that allows clubs to sell it at an extortionate price for those who wish to have a table and seats at a club. A minimum spend if you like. This defies my perception though. It has a beautiful nose of chocolate, chilli and hazelnuts. Taste wise it is sublime with the flavours detected on the nose following through, but with the addition of toffee and caramel. It is hard to pick one out. You can detect the additional length that it has, making this a stand out tequila. 

SirDavis Whisky

SirDavis Whisky 44% - £79 from The Whisky Shop

I missed the hype surrounding the launch of this whisky, as I was away working in Paris and out of the whisky loop. I therefore had no idea it was “Beyonce’s” brand, which I am pleased about. Evidently  Davis Hogue, who made whisky on his land is Beyonce’s great grandad. 

It is all too easy to dismiss celebrity owned brands as gimmicks, so here, I was able to judge it purely on what I tasted. It is made in Texas and had a notes of grain, cereal (shredded wheat), honey and vanilla. I really enjoyed the flavours I got on the palate. I want to say cassis, vanilla, dried apricot, vanilla ice cream with a lovely integrated spice. There is a lot of flavour, but a little one dimensional - I would have liked more complexity for the £79 RRP. Saying that, it is in line with lots of releases from new distilleries, so maybe just me longing for the good old days! It is certainly one to try.