David's Drink Diaries - Issue 25

With Father’s Day approaching, now is the time to start thinking about which wines to enjoy over lunch or dinner. Whether you're planning a grand roast, a laid-back barbecue, or a proper sit-down feast, the right bottle can add something memorable to the occasion. This year’s selection includes elegant sparkling wines, expressive whites, structured reds and a serious rosé — all chosen with versatility and food-friendliness in mind. Whether you're buying for a father, raising a glass to one, or simply using the day as an excuse to open something good, there’s a wine here for every table.

SPARKLING

Weyborne Oriana 2019 – £48 from Farr Vintners
The South Downs has no shortage of great sparkling producers, but Weyborne is quietly carving out its niche. Oriana 2019 is only their second release, made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, sourced from the estate’s oldest vineyard planted in 2004. It’s whole-bunch pressed, with a touch of neutral oak and over three years on lees. The result is fine bubbles, citrus peel, chalky precision and a long, clean finish. “We want to be world class,” says viticulturist Benjamin Abric.

Precious Day, Crémant de Bordeaux AOP -  £14.25 from Oxford Wine Company
Crémant from Bordeaux remains one of the most overlooked sparkling categories, and this bottle makes a compelling case for why that should change. ‘Precious Day’ is an understated charmer that delivers far more than its modest price suggests. It has a stream of fine bubbles with notes of citrus blossom, green apple skin, and crushed stones. On the palate, there’s a gentle orchard-fruit character balanced by clean, precise acidity and a touch of brioche. While it’s clearly made with finesse, the wine never overreaches, offering an easygoing elegance that’s hard to fault. For anyone seeking an alternative to Prosecco with more tension and structure, or a midweek fizz with Champagne’s backbone at a fraction of the cost, this is a smart pick. The Bordeaux origin adds a subtle regional accent that sets it apart from the Crémants of Burgundy or the Loire.

English Heritage Brut NV – £28 from Laithwaites
Made by Ridgeview, one of England’s founding names in top-tier sparkling wine, this has been made using traditional methods and the classic Champagne grape trio, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier and has spendt an impressive 51 months on lees. The result is a wine of quiet confidence: crisp green apple and citrus up front, followed by layers of soft brioche and a touch of almond, all carried by a persistent, fine mousse. The wine forms part of a partnership with English Heritage, bringing the story of English wine to a broader audience while supporting the preservation of Britain’s historic landmarks. Whether you're stocking up for a celebration or just want to explore the serious side of English fizz, this bottle is both thoughtful and thoroughly accomplished.

WHITES

Moillard Grivot Premium (100% Barrel Ageing) Chardonnay 2023 - £22.49 from Sandhams
Made entirely from barrel-aged Chardonnay, this 2023 release from Moillard-Grivot delivers classic white Burgundy character without slipping into excess. The oak t frames the fruit, bringing toasted almond and a hint of spice alongside aromas of white blossom and just-ripe peach. The palate is rounded, with a creamy midweight feel, but held in check by bright, lemon-edged acidity that keeps things fresh. It’s structured enough for richer dishes, but not so heavy it needs them, think roast chicken, creamy pastas, or grilled trout. For under £25, it delivers a recognisable Burgundy signature with clarity and restraint.

Mar de Frades Albariño 2024, Rías Baixas – £17.50 from Tesco
One of Spain’s most distinctive Albariños, Mar de Frades stands out for its sharp definition and Atlantic precision. Winemaker Paula Fandiño has spent nearly two decades fine-tuning how fruit from different subzones expresses itself, and this 2024 release reflects that detail. The vintage was tricky, wet conditions in autumn and a delayed vine cycle, but the result is anything but muddled. Aromas are lifted and fresh: grapefruit, lime zest, white flowers. On the palate, you’ll find a lean core of citrus and saline minerality, broadened by ripe nectarine and green apple. It’s aromatic without being heady, precise without feeling lean. 

ROSÉ

Château Galoupet Rosé 2024 – £47 from Jeroboams
This isn’t just a pretty rosé, it’s a serious expression of Provence. Made from 100% estate fruit, spread across 40 distinct plots in the crystalline soils of the region’s oldest geological formation, it blends Grenache, Syrah, Rolle and a generous dose of Tibouren, a grape that represents just 2% of the area’s vineyard plantings. “The 2024 Cru Classé captures the generosity of this vintage with rich fruits, a silky texture and a crisp finish,” says estate director Mathieu Meyer. Elegant and structured, it’s what happens when rosé is treated with the same care as any fine wine.

REDS

Santenay Moillard-Thomas - £29 from Majestic
For Burgundy drinkers who lean toward structure rather than softness, this Santenay from Moillard-Thomas will hit the mark. It’s a confident expression of Pinot Noir from the Côte de Beaune, offering tart redcurrant and cranberry fruit, a firm line of tannin,. The oak treatment is well-judged: subtle, lending a faint vanilla note and gentle polish without masking the fruit. The texture is silky but not plush, keeping the wine upright and focused. It’s a style that will appeal to those who appreciate restraint over ripeness, and would work well with duck, roast chicken, or even game birds.

​​Chateau de Fesles Cabernet Franc - £16.50 from Oxford Wine Company
A tidy Loire red that keeps things fresh and focused, this is one of the more accessible Cabernet Francs on the market without losing varietal identity. It opens with pure, crunchy red fruits, think red cherry and raspberry, before a faint herbal snap brings lift and grip to the finish. The mid-palate has more depth than the price might suggest, offering a rounded, juicy mouthfeel that’s helped along by bright acidity. Tannins are present but soft-edged, making this a versatile option for food, particularly tomato-based dishes, charcuterie, or grilled vegetables.

Calvet La Croix St Roch Montagne St Emilion - £15.50 from Ocado
A well-made right bank Bordeaux at this price is always worth noting. This Montagne Saint-Émilion delivers the essentials: ripe but restrained fruit, a firm sense of structure, and just enough earthy grip to feel properly rooted. Cassis and plum lead on the nose, with a little dried tobacco adding interest. The palate is clean and composed, offering red and black fruit, a hint of pencil shavings, and that familiar gravelly undertone. It’s unfussy, balanced, and food-friendly,  best served with roast lamb, rare steak, or even lentil stew.

Notebook Old Vines País 2022, Chile - £10.99 from Laithwaites
País is one of Chile’s oldest grape varieties, and it’s having a quiet renaissance. This version, made by Viña Morandé from dry-farmed, ancient vines in Maule, shows why. It’s feather-light in body, but packed with juicy red berry fruit — raspberry, cherry, even a bit of pomegranate, all carried by a zip of acidity and just a flicker of tannin. There’s no oak to weigh things down, just pure fruit and a touch of earthy charm. Chill it slightly and bring it to the picnic blanket; it works with everything from grilled vegetables to cold meats or a plate of cheese.

Chateau de Jaumes Infusion - £13.99 from Baythorne Wines
Southern French red with plush fruit and soft tannins. Raspberry and cocoa on the nose, a rounded mouthfeel, and a clean, easy finish. The blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan is well-executed and perfectly suited to casual dinners where you don’t want the wine to dominate but do want it to impress.

Janela Branca Vinho Regional Lisboa 2023 - £8.75 from Ocado

Portugal remains one of Europe’s most exciting sources of value-driven reds, and the 2023 Janela Branca from the Lisboa region is a perfect example of why. It’s unpretentious, approachable, and brimming with regional character.

Lisboa may not carry the fame of the Douro or Alentejo, but it produces wines with a distinct Atlantic freshness. The 2023 vintage of Janela Branca leans into that coastal influence, offering brightness and drinkability alongside enough flavoiur to really satisfy your palate. 

In the glass, it shows a deep ruby hue. The nose is full of ripe red cherries, crushed plums, and a dusting of black pepper, with a faint herbal edge,  think thyme or bay leaf. It’s fragrant without being sweet, lifted by a cool, fresh note. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, with juicy acidity and soft tannins. Red berries take the lead, followed by a hint of dark chocolate and a touch of spice.