Volkswagen California: 5 Days, 4 People and One Norfolk Terrier in VW’s Iconic Camper Van

I have officially entered the realm of the middle-aged man. Because for a little while now, I have been yearning for a bit of rose-tinted, unfiltered wanderlust. The kind where you simply go wherever the wind (or Google Maps) decides to take you. And while the grim realities of motorway snarl-ups and the endless dual carriageway roadworks have been quietly airbrushed out of this scenario, I’m going to roam up and down England and Wales – just for the sheer love of it.

And the ride for this grand little escapade? Volkswagen’s brand-new California Campervan. Day one, sitting on the driveway, it already wears that knowing expression that says, “I can take you somewhere far better than here.” It’s the perfect fusion of carriage and cottage - a rolling icon with Tardis-like proportions, purpose-built for exactly the kind of aimless, joy-fuelled roaming I’ve just signed myself up for.

But I am not going alone. My Wife, our two daughters and our Norfolk Terrier are coming with me. And so, we set off on a five-day ‘point-the-bonnet and get on it’ British road trip. Equal parts breathtaking landscapes, baffling weather and an unending argument over who gets to charge their device on the USB-C ports.

Day One – North Hampshire to Rhyd y Galen Campsite Via Snowdonia and Caernarfon.

We took the rather more scenic route to Snowdonia to kick things off in the California. After 5 and a half hours of the UK’s best dual carriageways to North Wales, I quickly established that the California Coast is a supremely simple thing to drive. The 2.0-litre TDI with 148 bhp doesn’t really sound much but I have to say that the drive was completely effortless. Almost like it knows you’ve got a family to keep happy.

Jessica and Alice immediately approved of the “loads” of USB-C ports. I think I counted six in total, so in truth, everyone was happy on that front. It also became clear that Jessica and Alice had taken my “only bring what you need” packing advice as more of a loose suggestion because the impressively proportioned rear storage cubbies and door bins were crammed with an eclectic mix of toys, snacks and at least one item I’m fairly sure came from inside a cereal box.

We threaded through Snowdonia Base Camp and over Pen-y-Pass, which in truth was way busier than I was really expecting the top of a mountain should be. So we found a quiet lay-by to walk the dog and take in all of Snowdonia’s incredible natural beauty.

Dinner in Caernarfon, then our first night at Rhyd y Galen campsite. There was some real trepidation about the sleeping arrangements at first - kids in the pop-top roof, us and Sally downstairs, was it going to work? But by the time the rain arrived, we were warm, dry and mildly smug. This is the first trick of the California: bright and airy by day, cocoon-cosy by night. And the heating? Fantastic.

Day Two – Rhyd y Galen Campsite to Big Northdown Farm Via Tenby.

A later start, a breakfast in Porthmadog, and then onto the A487 towards Corris — a road that winds through countryside so staggeringly beautiful it feels as though the landscape was shaped with the sole purpose of just being admired.

Three and a half hours later, we rolled into Tenby. South Beach was postcard-perfect, Salty’s Beach Bar did us a late lunch and the girls discovered that the Welsh sea is still incredibly cold, even in the height of Summer.

By the time we reached Big Northdown Farm, we were more than ready to rest. As the only guests that evening, we were greeted with genuine warmth by the owners, Brennan and Paula, whose hospitality immediately set the tone for our stay. Their simple invitation of “No rules, just relax” was a very-welcomed contrast to the often-over-regimented atmosphere normally found at the more established campsites.

The built-in awning proved its worth here because there was no faffing and no missing components, while the camping chairs tucked neatly into the tailgate transformed the space into an instant outdoor lounge. Inside, the kitchenette came into play for the all-important first boiling of the kettle, a small ritual that instantly made the California feel like home.

That night, under a ridiculously starry sky, it felt like we’d accidentally booked into our own private celestial light show.

Day Three – Big Northdown Farm To Farsyde Farm Campsite Via Robin Hood’s Bay.

This was a slog: 284 miles, mostly motorways. Not the California’s natural habitat but it still did the job with the kind of quiet competence you get from something that’s in its 75th year now. Adaptive cruise control and lane assist took the sting out of the dull stretches and the driving position is superb. High, commanding, loads of knee and leg room and twin armrests.

As we crested the North Yorkshire Moors, the scenery swung the mood back towards “epic road trip” again. Farsyde Farm campsite sits on the tip of a coastal hill and from there it’s just a ten-minute walk to Robin Hood’s Bay. We had pints in The Laurel Inn, wandered the maze of crooked backstreets, then dinner at The Smugglers Ale House, which deserves a mention not just for the food but for the rich smuggling history the village is known for.

Storm Floris had passed through the day before, so we were a little exposed up on the cliff. This is when the California’s solid build reassures you - no flapping panels or whistling gaskets, just a snug, warm box of contentment. Uno came out, Pinot was poured, the dog found a place to sleep and I had one of those moments where you think: this is exactly what I needed.

Day Four – Farsyde Farm Campsite To Ingledene Beckside Campsite Via Whitby and Pickering.

Up at 5am thanks to an over-enthusiastic cockerel. We took our revenge by firing up the kettle early. Off to Whitby before the crowds amassed, we got pancakes and fruit for the girls at Java Café. Then onto the Whitby Heritage Walk, the 199 steps to St Mary’s Church and the ruins of Whitby Abbey. Somewhere on Henrietta Street, we passed a house smoking kippers and the smell alone was enough to knock you into a 19th-century fishing village daydream.

From there to Ingledene Beckside in Pickering, where we arrived just in time to watch the last North Yorkshire Moors Railway steam train roll into the Station. Fish and chips for dinner because when in Yorkshire, etc.

The California slots into any UK town or City Centre with ease to be fair. Park assist, multiple cameras and the fact its dimensions (5.1m x 2.2m) means that it will still fit into a standard bay all mean that you’re not condemned to the dreaded campervan circle of shame around car parks.

Day Five – Ingledene Beckside Campsite to North Hampshire Via Lincoln.

By now, the California felt like ours. Catherine had her tea-making station perfected, Jessica and Alice had claimed certain storage drawers as “theirs,” and even Sally knew which cupboard the dog biscuits were in. We stopped in Lincoln, strolled down Steep Hill, lunch at Gigi’s Bar and Bistro and a proper gawp at Lincoln Cathedral — which is frankly astonishing.

The last miles home felt odd. Campervan trips create their own little bubble and you only realise how much you’ve enjoyed it when you’re pulling back into your driveway and wishing you weren’t.

Living With the California Coast

The 148 bhp diesel is perfectly matched to the job: relaxed, quiet and frugal enough (41.5mpg WLTP) to keep you moving between campsites without your wallet weeping. It’s front-wheel drive, which helps with that easy, car-like feel and the DSG gearbox is as smooth as you like.

Inside, the California Coast is the sweet spot in VW’s camper range. More kit than the entry Beach model but without going full-bells-and-whistles Ocean. You get the Manual pop-top roof with a proper mattress, a lower bed, a rear kitchenette with a one-burner gas hob, fridge, sink and loads and loads of storage. The blackout system works brilliantly and the auxiliary heater turns it into a winter-capable little home.

Everything is designed with logic and you don’t have to think too hard to understand what’s required for your given set-up. The camper control unit is simple, the soft close doors are a revelation and the sliding doors on both sides make navigating in and around the van a breeze.

And then there are the little touches: the camping table hidden under the bed, the folding chairs in the tailgate, the outdoor shower (perfect for sandy feet or muddy dogs). Clearly, it’s a vehicle that’s been refined over decades, not dreamt up in a boardroom last Tuesday.

Our Verdict

Five days, about 1,200 miles and we never once wished for anything bigger, faster or fancier. The California Coast isn’t about speed or luxury in the traditional sense — it is all about freedom. The ability to pull into a coastal lay-by, pop the roof and brew tea while the dog sniffs seaweed is what it does fantastically. And to go from bright, airy living space to snug night-time cocoon for 4 (plus Dog) is tremendous.

It’s not cheap (as tested, £74,089) but if you measure value in memories per mile, it’s practically a bargain. I loved it, the kids loved it, Catherine loved it and I’m sure even Sally loved it. And now it’s gone, I will just have to make do with bricks and mortar.

https://www.volkswagen-vans.co.uk/en.html

https://www.wales-camping.co.uk/

https://www.bignorthdownfarm.com/

https://www.facebook.com/FarsydeRobinHoodsBay/?locale=en_GB

https://pickeringcampsite.co.uk/

Model: Volkswagen California Coast 2.0 TDI 150 PS 7 spd DSG

Base Price (OTR / As Driven): £58,970.00 / £74,089.00

Propulsion: 2.0-Litre TDI 4-Cylinder Diesel

Drivetrain: Front Wheel Drive

Transmission: Seven-Speed DSG Automatic Gearbox

Output: 148 hp

Torque: 360 Nm

Unladen Weight (DIN): 2,417 kg

0-62 mph: 12.6 Seconds

Top Speed: 117 mph

Fuel Consumption (WLTP Combined): 41.5 mpg

C02 Emission (WLTP): 180 g/km