CERU, FARRINGDON: REVIEW

The popularity of Levantine cuisine continues apace across the capital, with one of the latest outlets on this scene opening its doors last year in the vibrant city district of Farringdon.

CERU, on Cowcross Street, a stone’s throw from the Underground station, is the third incarnation of this restaurant, whose sister venues in South Kensington and Queensway have already well established themselves in their respective local scenes.

Founders Patricia and Barry Hilton had been inspired by their years of travel through the Eastern Mediterranean region – embracing Turkey, Lebanon, Israel and Cyprus – to capture and recreate the region’s unmistakable flavours and hospitality, but with a contemporary twist in a laid-back and modern setting here in the British capital.

And handily for this writer, having visited all the aforementioned countries, I’ve enough first-hand knowledge of their cuisines to be able to declare CERU a resounding success on all fronts.
 

The venue itself has more of a relaxed village restaurant vibe, not stuffy or overly chic in any way, with its muted interior palette of oranges, yellows and browns offset by rich blues (the name ‘CERU’ is short for cerulean, the sunniest of azure blues). There are leafy plants aplenty, hand-crafted privacy screens, and also a couple of ornate artisan-carved wooden doors that effectively evoke a geographical feel of the region.

The seasonal menu truly seals the deal with its take on Levantine food, reimagining traditional dishes with contemporary techniques, predicated on small plates for sharing. I enjoy a selection, covering all bases from a refreshing light salad starter plate of crisp apple, mint and pomegranate with pine nuts and green chilli, to a dish of flawlessly braised octopus with a citrus harissa glaze and celeriac purée, and followed by CERU’s popular slow-roasted lamb shoulder with a 12 shawarma spice marinade.

Crispy spiced polenta and feta fries make a perfect side dish accompaniment to the tenderer meat and seafood plates, and the whole meal is crowned with a superlative dessert of cardamom ice cream offset with a crunchy nut brittle and burnt honey caramel.

I find out that more than 90% of CERU’s menu is naturally gluten-free, and it caters well for coeliacs and vegetarians, both of whom can sometimes feel disregarded particularly by Levantine menus where breads and meats feature prominently.

It’s great also to see that CERU take their drinks offering as seriously as their food. Wines are chosen to match well with all dishes, handpicked from the Eastern Mediterranean region, with whites and reds from Turkey, Cyprus, Georgia, Armenia and Lebanon, including Chateau Oumsiyat of William Reed’s 'World's 50 Best Vineyards' fame, who have produced a standout Lebanese wine exclusively for CERU.

Impressively also on the drinks exclusivity front, a couple of beers have likewise been brewed specially for CERU by Wiltshire’s Hop Kettle Brewery, while non-acoholic drinks uniquely include special house-made lemonades, plus a popular watermelon lemonade.

The biggest surprise of the whole CERU experience is how reasonably priced is the menu, offering exceptional value in this part of the city, only a ten-minute walk from St Paul’s Cathedral.

It’s little wonder the place has earned so many positive reviews from most who have visited it, from local business people to visiting tourists, all fancying an authentic taste of Eastern Mediterranean cuisine and hospitality in the capital, and not leaving disappointed.

So it’s good to know about the other CERU locations in west and southwest London, because if this latest Farringdon venue is a fair reflection of them, then CERU will be assuring its place in London’s culinary legacy for years to come.

Open from 12pm ‘til 11pm, Monday to Saturday (closed on Sundays). 
Denmark House, 9-13 Cowcross Street, London EC1M 6DR. www.cerurestaurants.com 

Photography by Jodi Hinds (food) and Richard Oxford (restaurant).