David's Drink Diaries - Issue 21

Mossburn 12-Year-Old “Famille Dupont” Calvados Casks 57.2%

Mossburn Distillers and Blenders continue to impress with their thoughtful and innovative cask finishes, and this 12-year-old expression is no exception. Neil Mathieson, Mossburn's master distiller, has selected 18 casks from four Speyside distilleries to undergo a finishing process in Calvados casks sourced from the Dupont family.  

Famille Dupont, a household name in Calvados production since 1887, has a long-standing relationship with Mathieson spanning over 30 years. With such pedigree and experience on both sides, it’s little wonder this whisky piqued my interest. Speyside whiskies, renowned for their orchard fruit notes, seem a perfect match for the apple-driven essence of Calvados. It’s a pairing so logical and complementary, that I often wonder why it isn’t explored more often.  

This delivers everything you’d hope for and more. Apple-forward notes burst onto the palate, accompanied by warming cinnamon and vanilla that wrap around you like a cosy blanket. It evokes the comforting sensation of enjoying a homemade apple crumble fresh from the oven. This whisky isn’t just about comforting puddings, but the creamy texture with subtle ginger spice, roasted nuts, and a drizzle of honey, might make it seem so. They are all tied together by a generous ABV that intensifies the flavours without overpowering them.  

At 57.2%, the whisky packs a punch, yet it remains balanced and inviting. For those of us who love cask innovation or simply those who enjoy rich, orchard-inspired drams, this is one you don’t want to miss. I asked Neil a few questions about the release:-

It has a very creamy finish - did you pick the 18 barrels specifically with this in mind?

The barrels were a mix that we chose to match the four Speys in the blend. These were all heathery floral types rather than my standard mix, where I balance this with heavier meatier distillates like Mannochmore and Auchroisk. So, we deliberately chose a mix of 10yo and 20yo wood which meant that there would still be some extraction from the French oak. These casks had held a mix of young Calvados of 3yo-5yo and some older 10yo+ balanced by a few Pommeau casks. These added the green/red apple complexity and a light edge of sweetness. The sizes varied from 220-400 litres.

With Speyside traditionally having notes of orchard fruit, why do you think it isn’t finished more often in Calvados casks?

Like many finishes, it took a little while to develop a balance between the extraction from the seasoned wood and the whisky filling. The florality and gentle sweetness only really became apparent after about 9 months. Calvados does not have a global volume presence big enough to ‘flavour’ many products and the producers are not using a huge amount of new wood or small barrels. This was an opportunity for Dupont to manage an influx of new oak, so they were happy to work with us on a small number of barrels.

You have worked with the Dupont family for 30 years - what makes them such a great producer?

My friend Etienne Dupont makes very articulate Calvados with a decided edge of oak spice, a clarity of fruit perhaps at odds with the heavy ‘old cask’ and stewed apple style of some other producers so an ideal collaborator! He took a few of our sherry and peated barrels to fill with his own spirit for some future single-cask offerings.

Tamnavulin Port Cask Edition 40%

Tamnavulin has become a reliable supermarket staple, and thank goodness for that. It offers an approachable price point paired with well-thought-out cask finishes, making it a fantastic option for whisky lovers on a budget. One standout is their red wine cask expression, which delivers impressive quality for the money. As a former wine merchant, this expression resonates particularly with my palate, combining familiar nuances of the wine world with the charm of Scotch.  

So, when I heard about the Port Cask Edition, made by Tamnavulin's master whisky maker Kirsty Hodge, I had to try it. 

It did not disappoint. From the first sip, the whisky delivered exactly what I’d hoped for: layers of red fruit, dark chocolate, and just the right balance of sweetness. It even manages to have some layers of complexity not usually found at this price. There are notes of roasted nuts, raisins, damsons, and a subtle hint of spice that lingers beautifully on the finish.  

For just £35, this is a whisky that punches well above its price point. It’s approachable yet full of character.. Whether you’re a fan of port finishes or simply looking for something new to explore, the Tamnavulin Port Cask Edition deserves a spot in your collection. It’s the kind of bottle you can enjoy casually but with enough depth to make it an interesting mid-week dram. 

Raasay Cask Buying Options

The Isle of Raasay distillery has a Six Cask programme that allows you to buy casks directly from the distillery, for them to mature until you are ready to bottle them. I had the opportunity to taste all 6 recently. 

Raasay Unpeated Chinkapin Cask 61%  

The nose is bold and distinct, with a savoury, meaty aroma reminiscent of roast pork, accented by a surprising sweetness akin to raisins. There's a lingering richness that suggests sherry influence, although it is not mentioned on the label. The palate is opulent and full-bodied, with layers of sweet and succulent flavours. It’s a dram that envelops you in its warm, inviting character, balancing a delicate complexity with a robust, lasting sweetness.

Raasay Peated Chinkapin Cask 61%  

On the nose, this whisky has a rich medley of smoked back bacon and a unique hint of germline, which enhances its distinctiveness. The smoke is restrained, offering a fresh peat aroma rather than heavy char or embers, allowing for a more delicate, almost airy smokiness. This is balanced by a touch of sweetness that rounds out the flavours beautifully. 

Raasay Unpeated Ex-Rye Cask 62.1%  

A gentle, delicate aroma comes up from the glass, with the rye subtly present. On tasting, the rye’s spiciness makes a brief appearance on the palate, hinting at more complexity to come as it matures. This whisky has a reserved character now, with its flavours likely to deepen and intensify over time, offering a promising glimpse of what it could become with further ageing.

Raasay Peated Ex-Rye Cask 62.1%  

Much like the unpeated version, but with a hint of smoke that adds depth without overpowering the subtle rye notes. The peat integrates seamlessly, creating a balance that enhances the delicate rye spice. It feels refined and poised, an excellent introduction to peated whisky for those who prefer a lighter touch.

Raasay Unpeated Bordeaux Red Wine Cask 61.1%  

A fruity bouquet, with notes of ripe berries, a hint of spice, and a touch of honey sweetness. The influence of the red wine cask is subtle but promises to grow, with blackcurrant notes emerging on the palate as the whisky develops. The mouthfeel is dry, with flavours that build gradually, giving it an elegant structure. This has the potential to deepen in complexity with time, revealing more of its fruity core as it ages.

Raasay Peated Bordeaux Red Wine Cask 61.1%  

This peated expression amplifies the flavours of the unpeated version, introducing a layer of smoky richness that adds intrigue. The peat, while prominent, currently overshadows the red wine notes, though with age, as the smokiness mellows, the wine influence is likely to re-emerge. Right now, the smoke adds a bolder character, while hints of underlying fruitiness await their turn in the spotlight.

raasaydistillery.com