DAVID'S DRINK DIARIES - ISSUE 25

If you’re looking for a reason to raise a glass with purpose, Tamdhu Whisky and Waitrose have come together to support the Atlantic Salmon Trust in honour of World Nature Conservation Day on 28 July. The exclusive charity edition of Tamdhu’s 12 Year Old Speyside single malt, fully matured in Oloroso Sherry casksis , available now in selected Waitrose stores and online for £50. Bottled at 41.3% ABV and presented in a gift box, it makes an ideal treat or thoughtful present. 

With every bottle sold, a donation goes directly to the Atlantic Salmon Trust, a conservation charity working to protect wild Atlantic salmon and their threatened habitats. Salmon numbers have dropped by around 70% across the North Atlantic in the past three decades, and in Great Britain the species is now endangered. The Trust’s work includes restoring rivers, removing manmade barriers to migration, planting native trees, and conducting cutting-edge research both in freshwater and at sea. Sandy McIntyre, Tamdhu’s Distillery Manager, says the partnership is a way to bring both whisky and conservation to a wider audience. With Waitrose’s support and the backing of Ian Macleod Distillers, the family-owned firm behind Tamdhu, this limited-edition bottling is a meaningful step towards restoring the health of our rivers and the survival of a species. It will be available from https://www.waitrose.com/

I’ve long been a fan of Glengoyne. Not only is it one of Scotland’s most picturesque distilleries, and within easy reach of Glasgow, but it also holds the rare distinction of sitting on the Highland Line, with the stillhouse in the Highlands and the warehouses in the Lowlands. Their latest release is a single cask whisky created in collaboration with Selfridges. It has been matured for 15 years in a European oak sherry cask and bottled at 54.2 percent. Just 259 bottles are available, priced at £250. The nose is rich with the aroma of old wooden sherry casks, ripe apricots, blackcurrants and vanilla. The palate is full and bursting with flavour, completely different from what the nose suggests. There is remarkable depth and viscosity, with a beautiful balance that avoids being too sweet or too dry. It reminded me of black treacle pecan pie (very American, I know) with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Quite delicious.

If fine rum is more your style, the latest release from The Whisky Exchange is worth seeking out. It is a single cask Havana Club (barrel number 111968), bottled at 48 percent and set to launch at Rum Show 2025, taking place from 18 to 19 July. Any remaining bottles will be available on their website after the event. The nose is generous with fruit and spice, ripe banana, honey, tobacco and clove. On the palate, it is refined and gently spiced, with just a touch of sweetness. Expect layers of tropical fruit, from papaya and mango to coconut. It was made by Havana Club’s Maestro Ronero, Asbel Morales, with whom I had a very enjoyable dinner in Paris last year.

Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Rosé Réserve 2024 12% – £9.25  from Ocado
Les Dauphins has taken its Southern Rhône flair and channelled it into this pale, summer-ready rosé, blending Grenache and Syrah with a dash of Cinsault for aromatic lift. Sourced from sun-soaked plots around Tulette, where clay-limestone and galet-strewn soils give intensity and freshness, the grapes are harvested before sunrise and pressed immediately to preserve delicacy. The result is a textbook Provence-style pink, with citrus zest, strawberry water and subtle floral charm. Gentle lees ageing adds just enough weight to make it a solid companion for charcuterie, salads or sundowners. 

Ramón Bilbao Rosé 2024 12.6%  – £8.75  from Co-op
This vibrant new release marks a coming-of-age moment for Ramón Bilbao’s Rioja rosé, now 13 vintages in and dressed for summer in a sleek new bottle. Winemaker Rosana Lisa has deepened the hue through a longer maceration, but kept the signature elegance. Garnacha and Viura grown high in the Alto Najerilla hills bring purity and lift, with redcurrant, grapefruit and floral notes wrapped around a precise mineral core. The 2024 vintage was a slow-burner, shaped by late-season rains and an uneven harvest, but it’s produced a wine with character, clarity and texture. Fresh enough to drink solo, structured enough to serve with grilled prawns or creamy pasta.

Domaine Frédéric Mochel Crémant d’Alsace NV 12% - £17.50  from The Wine Society
From a 10-hectare organic and biodynamic estate in Traenheim, this elegant Crémant blends 80% Chardonnay with 20% Pinot Noir, an uncommon ratio for Alsace that gives the wine precision and a touch of Burgundian charm. Guillaume Mochel, now 14th generation at the helm, opts for 20 months on lees—well beyond the regional minimum, bringing subtle brioche complexity to the crisp citrus and orchard fruit core. The grapes grow on marl-heavy slopes with a northwest exposure, allowing full phenolic ripeness while preserving acidity. It’s a wine of balance and finesse, ideal for aperitifs or lighter dishes, and a quietly confident alternative to Champagne.

Rock Angel 2024 13.5% - £28 at Majestic

According to Technical Director Bertrand Léon, the vintage is distinguished by its concentration, enveloping texture, and fresh acidity, qualities that bring both immediate appeal and potential for ageing. The growing season was shaped by a mild winter, early budburst, and steady vine development through spring rains, capped by a warm, sunlit summer. Sourced from vineyards around Château d’Esclans and top sites across the Côtes de Provence, Rock Angel 2024 blends Grenache, Cinsault, and Rolle. The result is an aromatic rosé with some minerality and is richer than it’s sibling, Whispering Angel due to some oak ageing. It is full of summer berries and a hint of peaches and cream. I suggest buying a case and seeing how it develops between now and next summer. 

Les Aromes 2024, Val de Loire IGP 8.5%  – £10.99 from Laithwaites
This low-alcohol Loire white is a bright introduction to Grolleau Gris, a pink-skinned grape that’s rarely seen outside of France. Grown on the breezy Atlantic-facing vineyards of Jérôme Choblet’s Domaine des Herbauges, the fruit is picked early to retain a natural freshness. The result is a delicately perfumed, feather-light white with notes of honeysuckle, white peach, and apricot, all underpinned by a saline lift. At just 8.5%, it’s ideal for long lunches or a late-afternoon reset.

Sol de Valencia Gewürztraminer 2024, Valencia DO 10.5%  – £10.99 from Laithwaites
Gewürztraminer is a rare find in Spain, but the eastern coastal vineyards of Bodegas La Viña have coaxed out something rather joyful. This is no heady Alsatian, early harvest and cool fermentation keep things clean and bright, with all the lychee, peach and floral aromatics you’d expect, but without the weight. Created in the blistering summer heat, it’s a wine built for it: lightly exotic, crisp, and ready to chill right down.

¡Hola! Mediterraneo Orange Spritz NV  8.5%  – £9.99 from Laithwaites
This Mediterranean spritz hits all the right notes for a pre-dinner refresher. Built on fizz from one of Laithwaites’ long-time Cava partners, it’s infused with a mix of herbs, bitter orange peel and spices for a zesty, grown-up profile. Think Aperol with Spanish flair. Pour it over ice, add a fresh orange slice, and you’ve got a crowd-pleasing aperitivo.

Planas Rosé Espadeiro 2024, 11%  – £11.99 from Laithwaites
A pink Vinho Verde might sound like a contradiction, but it’s a local classic in northern Portugal and this one’s made from Espadeiro, a native grape known for its vibrant acidity and bright red fruit. Grown in granite-rich soils by Francisco Leandro at Casa Santa Eulália, the wine is a crisp and lively rosé bursting with wild strawberry, cherry and mineral zest. It’s light, refreshing, and very much a regional gem.

Baronesa de Vilar Rosé Port NV 19.5% –  £12.99 (50cl) from Laithwaites
Rosé Port is still a relative newcomer, having only been recognised officially in 2008, but this one comes from serious pedigree. Made by Alvaro van Zeller, a member of one of the Douro’s oldest winemaking families, this fortified pink combines ripe berry flavours with a lifted floral nose and gentle sweetness. Serve it over ice with a splash of tonic for a modern aperitif that blends tradition with trend.

RedHeads Riesling 2023, Barossa 12% – £14.99 from Laithwaites
Better known for Shiraz, the Barossa isn’t where most people go Riesling hunting, but RedHeads is all about doing things differently. This zingy white comes from cooler Barossa sites, where lime, green apple and subtle florals play against a dry, clean finish. Fermented with precision at their solar-powered winery, it’s a bright, food-friendly bottle perfect for cutting through barbecue smoke or sipping solo as the grill heats up.

Le Rosé de la Clarière 2024, Bordeaux  11% ABV – £14.99 from Laithwaites
From Tony Laithwaite’s estate in Castillon, this Bordeaux rosé is a rare example of serious pedigree grapes, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, used with a light touch. The cooler 2024 vintage brought added freshness, and the gentle, cool ferment ensures a juicy core of raspberry and redcurrant with a twist of citrus peel. It’s elegant and food-friendly, yet easy enough to enjoy on its own.

The Guns of Garnacha 2023, Vino de España 14% –  £13.99 from Laithwaites
This bold Spanish red comes from Norrel Robertson MW, known as “El Escocés Volante” (The Flying Scotsman), who’s carved out a reputation for rich, expressive Garnacha in the high-altitude vineyards of Campo de Borja. The 2023 vintage is packed with sun-ripened fruit, think cherry compote, crushed blackberry and a touch of spice. A firm BBQ favourite, it’s robust enough to stand up to ribs, flame-grilled burgers or a well-charred sausage.