Savoy Grill - Timeless Brilliance
The elegant interior
Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill is one of London’s most iconic restaurants, blending sophistication with timeless elegance and reflecting the hotel’s rich heritage. Reimagined by Gordon Ramsay, the restaurant reopened its doors in April 2023, revitalising a space that has been a favourite of actors, politicians, and influential figures for generations. The subtle updates were well worth the investment, as the buzzing dining room now welcomes a new demographic of passionate foodies alongside its regulars.
For over a century, the Savoy Grill has been a haven for the world’s most famous figures. Winston Churchill, Marilyn Monroe, James Dean, Frank Sinatra - even Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, have all eaten here. The Art Deco dining room, steeped in history, has also welcomed literary greats like Oscar Wilde.
Through decades of change, the restaurant has retained its elegance while adapting to modern expectations. Afroditi Design Studio played a pivotal role in this latest transformation, ensuring the restaurant’s timeless magic remained intact. Historic Swarovski chandeliers, Churchill’s favourite clock, and the original table layout have all been retained. Meanwhile, subtle changes, such as increased natural light and refined table lighting, enhance the dining experience.
Stepping into the restaurant, you are instantly immersed in classic grandeur. The polished wood panelling, soft lighting, and gleaming brass accents evoke an era when dining was an occasion to be savoured. It exudes old-world charm, yet the menu speaks of modern refinement, a balance Ramsay and his team have mastered with precision. Under the leadership of Executive Head Chef Arnaud Stevens, the menu has been subtly elevated, respecting classic dishes while using contemporary techniques. The goal has been to push the boundaries of the classics without diminishing their essence or overshadowing the carefully selected seasonal produce.
I found that it was a retreat from today’s casual dining dominance. There is a particular happiness I feel when I see details that have become increasingly rare, such as crisp, ironed linen tablecloths. It is these small details that matter. In a city brimming with avant-garde concepts and fusion experiments, returning to the classics feels not only appropriate but, at times, necessary.
We enjoyed the Savoy Grill Experience menu, beginning with a foie gras bonbon served with quince purée and cacao. I love quince but had never paired it with foie gras before. This was a revelation. This was accompanied by a glass of Côtes & Seely Rosé sparkling wine from Hampshire, which complemented the dish beautifully.
Next came a Louet-Feisser oyster with preserved lemon, pickled daikon, chilli, and tangerine. These oysters, cultivated by the Carlingford Oyster Company in Carlingford Lough, Ireland, had a beautiful creaminess, with the other ingredients working in harmony to elevate the natural flavour. I could have eaten a dozen of these.
The Soufflé Arnold Bennett is part of The Savoy’s history, created in honour of the eponymous writer, a regular guest. Ramsay’s version has taken the dish from its traditional omelette form, making it lighter yet just as indulgent, with the richness of smoked haddock folded into a creamy béchamel, all crowned with a golden soufflé. Having served a similar dish during my time as a sommelier in a Michelin-starred restaurant in the 1990s, this was deeply nostalgic for me. The balance of textures and flavours was impeccable. Silky, deeply satisfying, and a rare treat given how seldom smoked haddock appears on menus today.
A dish as rich as this needs a wine that can stand up to it. The Saint-Aubin "Le Ban" 2022 from Domaine Henri Prudhon worked wonderfully well, its acidity cutting through the richness while complementing the bold flavours.
The Beef Wellington is the signature dish and showcases just how a classic should be made. Two chefs are dedicated solely to its preparation, with as many as 70 whole Wellingtons made on busy days. My guest, my son, had researched this online and engaged in an in-depth conversation with the server about it. It made me immensely happy that he had taken the time to do this, such was his enthusiasm to try it.
The tender fillet of beef, encased in a mushroom duxelles with truffle and wrapped in golden, buttery pastry, was quite simply perfection. I said this to myself on the very first bite. The fillet was impossibly tender, the duxelles providing just enough earthiness, and the pastry crisp and delicate. This dish is all about balance, allowing the truffle to complement rather than overpower. With up to 70 being made a day, you might assume this to be effortless, but not all truffles are created equal. Their flavour varies with season and variety. The next time I order one, I shall enquire about this balancing act. I find it intriguing.
Continuing with the classics, the pudding was a Poire Belle Hélène with Madagascan vanilla ice cream and dark chocolate sauce. A thin slice of pear on top of the ice cream added to its elegance. It is said that Escoffier invented this dish in 1864. What days those must have been in his kitchen? As expected, it was a perfect conclusion to the meal.
Service here is effortlessly polished, being attentive without being intrusive, and knowledgeable yet never overbearing. Thierry Tomasin, a legend in the industry, leads a team that embodies charm and expertise. This is not the stiff, formal service of the 1990s but an approach that is warm, welcoming, and engaging. Having dined here in December, I was remembered. This is a rarity in today’s hospitality world, and it is details like these that make The Savoy so special.
The hallmark of great service is knowing when to be present and when to step back. At The Savoy Grill, the staff read the room instinctively, ensuring that guests feel cared for without ever feeling watched. Dining is about more than food, it’s about how you feel throughout the experience. As the saying goes, "Guests may forget what they ate, but they will never forget how they were treated." I agree, though few will forget the Beef Wellington.
The sommelier not only suggested perfect pairings, but also provided insight into the wines, building trust so that we felt confident in their recommendations. We were served a Les Allées de Cantemerle 2018 alongside the beef. Cantemerle is one of my favourite estates, so this could not have been more perfect. It was full of dark berries, damson, and cherry, with a savouriness that worked beautifully with the mushroom and truffle.
Luxury dining demands a level of precision that few restaurants achieve, yet The Savoy Grill executes it with ease. Beyond efficiency, it is the elegance of service that sets this restaurant apart. When a dish is presented tableside, it is done with grace and ceremony.
We did not order the Crêpes Suzette, but a neighbouring table did. They were an older couple, evidently well-travelled and accustomed to fine dining. They filmed the entire presentation, captivated by the theatre of the moment. I use the word "theatre" deliberately, as tableside flambé is a performance. It is one I have personally done many times in my time as a waiter before becoming a sommelier. Seeing a guest’s face light up as you prepare the dish is always a pleasure. Here, I found joy simply in witnessing the couple’s happiness.
The Savoy Grill is a restaurant where old-world charm thrives in the heart of modern London. This is British food at its finest - classic, refined, and executed with absolute precision. The new era of the restaurant honours the past while embracing the future, ensuring its place as a culinary landmark for years to come.
We enjoyed the Savoy Grill Experience, a five-course exploration of the restaurant’s past, present, and future. At £115 per person, it makes for a memorable gift or an indulgent experience. The menu changes seasonally, ensuring that you can return to new discoveries each time. I suggest you book sooner rather than later to enjoy these wonderful dishes.
