St Moritz: Summer Wellness With a Side of Swiss Charm at Hotel Grace La Margna

When you think of St Moritz, you probably picture snow-capped peaks, Olympic history, glamorous ski resorts and après-ski lounges where the champagne flows as easily as the conversation. Now swap the mulled wine for a crisp Chardonnay. In summer the town trades its fur for linen, and it may be even better for it.

The luxury is still here, of course; St Moritz is an icon, after all. But it comes with something winter rarely offers: green. The Engadin Valley, sitting at around 1,800 metres (about 6,000 feet), fills with wildflower meadows and deep blue lakes beneath those jagged peaks. The air is thin, dry and bright, what St Moritz regulars call "champagne climate." Visitors have been coming for the mineral springs for a very long time, and their reputation as restorative is well earned: the springs were first tapped here more than 3,000 years ago, and by the 19th century a spa culture was flourishing as Europe's aristocracy arrived to bathe and to take in the sun. These days many come for the view, which is oddly addictive and rather therapeutic. Budget an extra hour for it every day.

Those with an adventurous streak are well catered for. Hiking trails run from lakeside strolls to climbs that will leave your legs burning. Mountain bikers can tear down steep descents that rival any ski run, and the region's lakes bring out windsurfers and kite surfers in force. Then there's Lake St Moritz itself, which turns from winter ice to open water, ideal for sailing, paddleboarding, or simply dipping your toes in and contemplating life's big questions.

A Landmark, Reborn

Ever dreamt of escaping to the Swiss Alps and living like royalty, even for a few days? GRACE LA MARGNA makes it feel entirely possible. The hotel has been a local landmark since 1906, when the Swiss architect Nicolaus Hartmann designed the original building a stone's throw from St Moritz station, on a UNESCO World Heritage railway line. It has hosted royals and countless romantic getaways, and its walls hold stories that would make a hardened travel writer swoon. It is also one of only six five-star hotels in the area, and it stays open year-round.

Now the grand dame has company. The new Grace Wing, said to be the first newly built five-star hotel in St Moritz in 50 years, stands beside the restored original like a well-chosen pairing: distinct, but made for each other. Clad in pale beige Moleanos limestone, it echoes the playful grid of windows on the old façade while keeping a modern character of its own. Together the two wings hold 74 rooms and suites, with most facing south to catch the light and the lake. The whole place is so thoughtfully curated and designed that it nails the high-end boutique-hotel vibe with aplomb.

The Room: Junior Deluxe Suite

Checking into my room and opening the curtains, the view from the window immediately took hold. My Junior Deluxe Suite looked straight out over the station and the picturesque Lake St Moritz, framed by majestic peaks, and I stood there, transfixed, trying to commit the whole scene to memory.

The room itself was a masterclass in Alpine luxury: dark oak, soft neutral textures, plush bedding on Swiss-made Elite beds, Frette linens, and a bathroom closer to a private and spacious mini-spa. An in-room iPad handled everything from service requests to a pillow menu, and the wardrobe held hotel-branded essentials, including a rucksack, an umbrella and a towel bag, all for use during my stay. There was real warmth here, the kind that makes you kick off your shoes and stay in.

The Living Room

Stepping into the communal Living Room feels like discovering the cosiest corner of luxury you never knew you needed. Heritage-protected windows, deep plush sofas and a curated selection of homemade sweets and snacks, displayed like jewels in glass jars, line the room. They taste as good as they look, and I found myself eyeing them every time I passed, which became purposefully frequent. The real crowd-pleaser is a well-stocked tea station that offers global blends to mix yourself, so a custom cup by the fireplace becomes a small ritual of the holiday.

N/5 - The Bar

I wandered into N/5 and, within about a minute, felt I'd found the heart of what makes St Moritz tick: elegance, community and a certain something that makes you want to come back for more.

Then there's the bar itself. Seven metres long and carved from a single piece of Carrara marble weighing a jaw-dropping eight tonnes, it's the kind of showstopper that had me wondering how they ever got it through the door. It's sleek, substantial and very much the pulse of the hotel, whether you're stopping for a quick drink or settling in for a night of live music.

What won me over, though, is how easily N/5 blends Swiss heritage with a contemporary vibe: old-world charm on one side, modern sophistication on the other, and a crowd that feels thoroughly global. Whether you're a local or just passing through, it's more than a place for a cocktail. It's a destination in its own right, and one I was still thinking about long after I'd left.

Behind the bar, bar manager and head mixologist Mirco Giumelli works with effortless flair. Don't leave without a look at the illustrated cocktail tarot cards in the hotel shop, a gift that will delight any cocktail lover. If you'd rather learn than drink, book a cocktail masterclass in advance.

The View Restaurant

Ever wondered what it's like to dine inside a sunbeam? THE VIEW, the hotel's all-day restaurant, is circular, with a sculpted wooden ceiling that echoes rays of light and floor-to-ceiling windows on the panorama. At dusk, twilight crosses the floor.

Mornings begin with the peaks waking up outside and a choice of buffet or à la carte, with egg dishes, bowls, pancakes and waffles all on offer. It is exactly the kind of breakfast that makes a second coffee, and a longer look at the lake, feel entirely reasonable.

Dinner is Mediterranean at heart. The kitchen, led by Executive Chef Andrea Bonini, offers a journey around the sea's flavours, with local heritage and a modern twist on each dish. I won't forget the crisp veal Milanese under ribbons of shaved truffle, nor the wood-fired pizza followed by a tiramisu assembled at the table, a small piece of theatre all of its own.

The staff are warm and intuitive, and offer recommendations as if they've known you for years. Pizza lovers can book a workshop with the head chef, and I'd happily do it again.

The Spa

After a day on the trails, the Grace Spa is where the afternoon really begins. It takes the town's old faith in restorative water, the same faith that drew aristocrats to the springs centuries ago, and gives it a thoroughly modern setting.

The centrepiece is a 20-metre heated pool that shimmers deep blue, with a counter-current system that lets you swim against the flow without ever turning at the wall. Alongside it, a Vitality whirlpool lets you control the powerful jets, while a hydrotherapy pool of fountains and jets is made for legs that have earned a rest.

Then comes the rhythm of heat and cold. Finnish and salt saunas and a steam room warm you through; a crushed-ice chute wakes you right back up. In between, the "Emotional" and "Aquamoon" waterfall showers wash it all away. Keeping fit is catered for too, with a compact gym, tailored fitness programmes and a mountain backdrop.

Treatments draw on Bellefontaine Switzerland, La Biosthétique, Bynacht and Eponé products, and are delivered by a talented new team in dedicated treatment rooms. My body massage was so deeply relaxing that I had to be gently roused and guided to the Wellness Lounge to recover from my daze!

The lounge itself is part of the appeal: a quiet place to linger over healthy drinks and snacks, with a terrace to match. Guests can use the pool from 7am to 10pm, which means an early swim before breakfast is entirely possible, and a late, unhurried one after dinner is even better.

My own favourite moment came in the pool: swimming through that sapphire blue water, with mountains and blue skies filling the view, while the open doors let in the fresh alpine air with every breath. It is hard to imagine a better way to spend a morning at altitude.

Summer Fun

In summer, GRACE LA MARGNA becomes a playground for outdoor enthusiasts. Its prime lakeside location puts hiking trails, mountain-bike routes and water sports on Lake St Moritz within easy reach. The hotel also curates guided excursions, from luxury lakeside picnics to bespoke mountain tours, so you can immerse yourself in the region's landscapes and revitalising mountain air.

During my stay, I spotted athletes and health-minded visitors alike running the lakeside paths and winding roads, many of them clearly training at altitude. It makes this a natural destination for anyone eager to boost their fitness and wellbeing, and a very good reason to book an extra night.

Final Thoughts: The Ultimate Summer Wellness Retreat

GRACE LA MARGNA works because it doesn't pick between old and new. A 1906 landmark and a modern limestone wing share one address, and the result feels less like a place to sleep than a place built for renewal.

The swim, the massage and the mountain air did the restoring; the staff, the pillow menu and the little picture projected onto my coffee foam each morning did the winning over. Leaving was the hardest part.

Whether you come to recharge, indulge in some self-care or simply soak up St Moritz in summer, GRACE LA MARGNA will leave you wishing you could move in. History, luxury and a little sophisticated charm come together here, and together they make a stay that lives up to its promise. So go ahead: treat yourself. Life's too short for boring hotels, and when the Chardonnay light is pouring across the lake, there is always time for one more glass.

Getting there: Glacier Express or Bernina Express to St Moritz station, plus transfer times from Zurich Airport

https://www.gracehotels.com/en/destinations/grace-la-margna-st-moritz