Beyond the Bottle at Porte Noire
David Farber
Tucked behind the pillars and curves of Gasholder No.10 in King’s Cross, Porte Noire is one. Tucked behind the pillars and curves of Gasholder No.10 in King’s Cross—a space once better known for raves and railway soot than for polished wine service, Porte Noire is one of those restaurants that, once visited, makes you wonder why you left it so long.
Co-founded by actor Idris Elba and French wine expert David Farber, Porte Noire is far more than a vanity project with a well-curated drinks list. It’s a restaurant and wine bar with intent, polish, and a clear understanding of how to balance detail with atmosphere.
The space is both moody and elegant: think rich textures, softened by cherry red fabric on the seats, with golden lamps glowing against custom-made curved walls made from cork. These are like an art installation themselves. It feels designed for conversation. Tables are spaced just enough to give a sense of privacy, the acoustics are soft and forgiving, and the room hums with the easy confidence of a place that knows what it is.
There are more than 800 wines on the list, and that’s not hyperbole. Many are available by the glass, and the staff, knowledgeable but unpretentious, glide through the list with you, suggesting options with genuine enthusiasm. There are bottles from the founders’ own label too, also called Porte Noire, and the selection spans classics, rarities, and under-the-radar gems, all chosen with drinkability rather than ego in mind.
And if you find something you like? You can buy it. A dedicated wine shop sits discreetly at one end of the restaurant, curated with the same precision as the list. It’s an extension of the experience — part cellar, part boutique, where guests can pick up a bottle to take home.. Behind this lies the restaurant’s locked wine room. Discreetly positioned and only accessible to those who ask, it’s a treasure trove of rare and fine bottles. Think back vintages, grand cru Champagnes, and a few surprises for those who ask nicely.
What surprised me most, though, was the food. Too often, wine-focused restaurants treat the kitchen as an afterthought. Not here. The cooking is precise and passionate, with an integrity towards flavour that shows restraint where it matters, and flair when it counts. The tomato tartare I tried was one of the best things I’ve eaten in months, balanced, layered, and finished with a kind of clean sweetness that only comes from properly respecting your produce. The pork, meanwhile, was as tender as wagyu, with enough texture and depth to hold its own against a powerful glass of red. A burrata came with a selection of tomatoes, no surprises there, but what set it apart was the bed of Mexican-inspired moles it sat on. This was unexpected and delicious. A simple dish transformed. I thought I detected mustard seeds in it, really working with the sweetness found elsewhere in the dish.
The menu doesn’t try to do too much. Dishes are well-paced, beautifully plated, and composed with a deft hand. There’s confidence in its conciseness. You won’t find overworked foams or unnecessary theatre - just very good food. That spirit extends to the service, which is warm, considered, and never intrusive. On both my visit and judging by the general consensus online, it’s clear the team take pride in getting the balance right between relaxed and refined.
King’s Cross has become a magnet for destination dining, and it would be easy for any restaurant to get lost in the noise. But Porte Noire has carved out its space with quiet confidence. It doesn’t trade on celebrity, even though it easily could. Instead, it trades on consistency, craft, and atmosphere, a rare trio in a city increasingly dominated by far too young head chefs, paying little respect to technique, balance, texture and flavour.
It feels grown-up without being stiff, stylish without posturing. If you love wine, you’ll be well looked after. If you love food, you’ll be quietly impressed. And if you love both, you’ll kick yourself for not booking sooner.
