DAVID'S DRINK DIARIES - ISSUE 17
Compass Box
Compass Box, the trailblazing Scotch whisky company renowned for its innovative blends, has once again made waves with the launch of three new expressions: Crimson Casks, The Peat Monster, and Orchard House. Each of these whiskies embodies the unique approach that Compass Box takes towards blending, offering a diverse range of flavours and experiences.
I experienced them over a wonderful dinner, cooked by chef James Sharpe, that highlighed the characteristics of each whisky. Given that this was in a pop-up environment and not his own kitchen, the food was remarkable. The mussels and mushrooms with pickled walnut ketchup and a whisky and smoked mussel sauce was so good, that it is currently my dish of the year.
The Crimson Casks is an exploration into the world of sherry cask-matured whisky. The blend brings together select single malts that have been aged in first-fill Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks, which impart a rich ruby hue and a complex flavour profile.
On the nose, Crimson Casks greets you with intense aromas of ripe plums, dark chocolate, and a hint of leather. The palate follows through with layers of sweetness, with notes of raisins, figs, and a touch of cinnamon spice, all wrapped up in a velvety texture. The finish is long and warming, leaving a lasting impression of sherry richness and subtle oak influence. This expression is perfect for those who enjoy a full-bodied whisky with a rich and luxurious profile. It was my favourite of the trio.
For those who crave the bold, smoky character that only peat can provide, The Peat Monster is an artful combination of peated single malts from Islay and the Highlands, resulting in a whisky that is both smoky and balanced. It opens with an assertive nose of peat smoke, seaweed, and a touch of citrus. It is robust and complex, with smoky, earthy notes dominating the palate, complemented by hints of apple, vanilla, and a subtle sweetness. There is a lingering smokiness that continues to evolve as it fades.
Orchard House offers a completely different experience from the other two expressions. This whisky is all about celebrating the bright, fresh, and fruity side of Scotch. Compass Box created Orchard House by blending single malts that have been aged in ex-bourbon barrels and toasted oak casks, resulting in a whisky that is light, vibrant, and full of fruit-forward flavours. On the nose, Orchard House bursts with aromas of ripe apples, and pears, just as anticipated. The palate is refreshing, with flavours of green apples, citrus, and a touch of honeyed sweetness. The finish is clean and crisp, leaving a pleasant aftertaste that follows on from the palate and a slight hint of spice. This is perfect the whisky for those who appreciate a lighter, more delicate dram, and it’s an excellent choice for warm weather or as an aperitif.
If you have yet to sample an expression from Compass Box, then I urge you to do so. Their blending is masterful, creating whiskies that not only look fantastic in your drinks cabinet, but over-deliver in terms of flavour. They are simply delicious.
Ardbeg
Located on the wild, windswept shores of Islay, Ardbeg has a long history dating back to 1815. Known for producing some of the peatiest and most complex single malts in Scotland, Ardbeg has cultivated a global following with its unique branding, events and way of doing things. The distillery’s commitment to traditional methods, combined with innovation, has led to a range of whiskies that are as challenging as they are rewarding.
Not afraid to experiment and release rather interesting whisky under Dr Bill Lumsden direction, they have recently released the Spectacular. This has been matured in a combination of port and ex-bourbon casks, marrying that wonderful smoke with the sweet notes and red fruits coming from the port. It has resulted in a cacophony of flavours, with the port influence not overpowering. It has a lovely combination of BBQ smoke, leather, figs, oranges with a lovely spice. I would love to try this at a higher abv to compare. On the whole, this was a very enjoyable whisky and offered an opportunity to try something a little different from Ardbeg.
If you are unfamiliar with the brand, their core range is a great introduction, before diving into the limited releases.
Ardbeg 10-Year-Old: Often described as the quintessential Ardbeg, this whisky is a perfect introduction to the brand’s style. It’s intensely smoky, with notes of citrus, vanilla, and a long, complex finish. It’s un-chill-filtered, allowing for a fuller body and richer texture.
Ardbeg Uigeadail: Named after the loch that supplies the distillery’s water, Uigeadail is a marriage of Ardbeg’s traditional deep smoky notes with a sherried sweetness, creating a complex and full-bodied whisky. It’s a favourite among many Ardbeg fans for its balance of richness and depth.
Ardbeg Corryvreckan: Named after a famous whirlpool near Islay, Corryvreckan is a stormy, intense whisky with a bold and powerful character. It’s known for its peppery mouthfeel, with flavours of black pepper, dark fruit, and tar balanced by a creamy, vanilla sweetness.
Ardbeg An Oa: The most recent addition to the core range, An Oa is a more approachable, rounded whisky, designed to showcase the softer, sweeter side of Ardbeg without losing the signature peatiness. It’s aged in a combination of different cask types, giving it a complex but well-integrated flavour profile.
Ardbeg Wee Beastie: Wee Beastie is unique in the Ardbeg lineup for its age. While many whiskies are aged for at least 10 years before release, Ardbeg chose to bottle Wee Beastie at just 5 years, making it the youngest expression in their core range. This decision was bold, but it paid off, resulting in a whisky that is surprisingly complex and full of character despite its youth.
The name "Wee Beastie" reflects the whisky’s nature, small, but packing a powerful punch. At 47.4% ABV, it’s bottled at a slightly higher strength than some of its older siblings. From the first sip, it’s clear that Wee Beastie lives up to its name, offering a raw, unfiltered glimpse into the heart of Ardbeg’s signature peatiness.
Glenmorangie 12
Glenmorangie’s Bold Move: Replacing Their Iconic 10-Year-Old Whisky with a 12-Year-Old Expression
For decades, the distillery’s 10-year-old expression has been a cornerstone of their portfolio, however, in a surprising move, Glenmorangie has announced the replacement of it with a new 12-year-old expression. This decision marks a significant shift in the distillery’s strategy and has generated considerable interest and speculation among whisky enthusiasts worldwide.
Glenmorangie’s 10-year-old, often referred to as “The Original,” is known for its smooth, fruity character and delicate complexity, it has introduced countless people to the world of single malt Scotch. The 10-year-old was often seen as an entry point into the broader Glenmorangie range, which includes a variety of older and more experimental expressions. Over the years, it has garnered numerous awards and accolades, cementing its place as one of the most respected whiskies in its category.
The decision to replace such an iconic whisky would not be made lightly. According to Glenmorangie’s master distiller, the move to a 12-year-old expression reflects the distillery’s commitment to innovation and quality. As whisky matures, it develops deeper and more complex flavours, and the additional two years in the barrel allow the spirit to reach new heights of refinement and character.
This change is also part of a broader trend in the whisky industry, where there is an increasing demand for older and more mature expressions. By introducing a 12-year-old, Glenmorangie aims to appeal to this growing segment of the market, offering something that is both familiar and elevated.
While the 12-year-old expression retains the core characteristics that made the 10-year-old so beloved, it also introduces new layers of complexity. The extra two years of ageing in American oak casks allow for a richer development of flavours. There is a deeper, more pronounced vanilla sweetness, accompanied by hints of toffee, ripe fruit, and a subtle spice. The mouthfeel is slightly fuller.
Whisky Exchange - 3 New whiskies to try
New Riff 2019 Single Barrel Rye 57.8% - £97 from The Whisky Exchange
I love Rye whiskey and remember buying a bottle of New Riff in my early days of writing about whisky. The nose is as rich as you would expect, with that all-telling aroma of cereal and plasticine that I love. The palate is a spicy onslaught, just as I want it to be. I want to say that I get black treacle coming from it, laced with vanilla and black tea.
Ki One Single Malt Korean Whisky 46% - £79.95 from The Whisky Exchange
I was excited to try this, the first whisky from Korea (Namyangju, just outside of Seoul) and I have to say that on the nose, I would have guessed Scotch. There were cereal notes, apricot jam and biscuits. The palate had spice, biscotti biscuits, honey, ripe peaches and vanilla. A very worthwhile expression and certainly one to obtain and ask your guests to try.
Red Spot 1991 31 Years Old exclusive 57.6% from The Whisky Exchange
Irish whisky is such an interesting category, with excellent whiskies being released. This has a deep mahogany colour that hints at how sublime it is. Among the cereal notes on the nose were all fruits such as damsons and red currants, intermingling with a touch of prune syrup. The palate is rich, full and savoury with a healthy dose of spice. It is a joy to sample whisky of this age that still has 57.7% alc. The length is impressive with notes of apricot tart lingering for minutes afterwards. This is certainly a whiskey to take your time over and discover all the complexity it offers.
