Celentano's at Arthouse Hotel: Glasgow's most exciting Table has found a new Home
Selection of dishes
Relocating a successful restaurant is never without risk. Diners inevitably arrive with expectations, particularly when the original has built such a loyal following. Since opening in Cathedral House in 2021, Celentano's has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand, Scottish Restaurant of the Year at the Scotsman Scran Awards and a reputation as one of Glasgow's most exciting places to eat. Moving to the newly opened Arthouse Hotel on Bath Street marked the start of a new chapter for Dean and Anna Parker, but thankfully one thing hasn't changed — the food remains exceptional.
The new setting suits the restaurant perfectly. Designed as part of Arthouse's 'artist's residence' concept, the interiors feel warm, understated and effortlessly stylish. Exposed brickwork, reclaimed timber flooring, hand-hammered zinc tables and an open kitchen create a relaxed bistro atmosphere that feels lived in rather than overly designed. It's contemporary without chasing trends, and the open pass brings just enough theatre to remind you that some very talented people are hard at work.
Service was warm, knowledgeable and refreshingly genuine. There is an easy confidence about the front-of-house team that immediately puts you at ease, allowing the food to take centre stage. Emma our waitress was fabulous, and her indepth knowledge of the menu, was tremendous, she managed to answer all our questions with absolute charm.
The meal began with Celentano's sourdough served alongside smoked cultured butter, and what a way to start. Bread can often feel like an afterthought, but not here. The sourdough had a beautifully crisp crust and light, airy interior, while the cultured butter was nothing short of outstanding. Rich, smoky and deeply savoury, it was one of those deceptively simple combinations that you find yourself talking about long after the meal has finished.
Then came the standout dish of the evening.
The Smoked Cod Doughnuts with kimchi are, quite simply, one of the best things I have eaten in a long time. Beautifully crisp on the outside, impossibly light inside and filled with delicately smoked cod, every mouthful delivered another layer of flavour. The kimchi cut through the richness perfectly, adding just enough acidity and gentle spice without overwhelming the fish.
Restaurants often become known for one signature dish. Dean Parker already has his. If I could offer one piece of advice, it would be never take these off the menu. They have become synonymous with Celentano's and deserve a permanent place on it.
The preserved fennel with salsa verde was another dish that demonstrated the kitchen's confidence. Fresh, vibrant and full of flavour, it celebrated excellent produce without unnecessary complication. It was a reminder that the best cooking doesn't always need multiple components; sometimes restraint is every bit as impressive.
Not every dish reached the same standard. The linguine with crab was pleasant enough, but compared with the dishes that surrounded it, it lacked impact. I wanted the sweetness of the crab to sing, but instead it felt a little too restrained. My dining companion, my son also sampled the chicken skins, which were enjoyable, although they never quite escaped the shadow cast by those unforgettable cod doughnuts.
For my main course I chose the monkfish, and it was beautifully cooked. Monkfish can easily become dry if overworked, but here it retained its delicate sweetness and wonderfully meaty texture. It was another dish that reflected Dean Parker's ingredient-led style of cooking, allowing excellent produce to remain the hero of the plate.
Across the table, the steak also received an enthusiastic seal of approval, cooked exactly as requested and disappearing with impressive speed.
What impressed me throughout the meal was the quiet confidence of the cooking. There is no sense that the kitchen is trying to surprise diners for the sake of it. Instead, every dish feels carefully considered, with flavours that are balanced, precise and full of purpose. Dean Parker's commitment to low-waste cooking, fermentation and preservation isn't there as a fashionable talking point; it simply underpins everything that comes out of the kitchen.
The drinks list deserves recognition too. Anna Parker has assembled a thoughtful selection of organic and biodynamic wines that sit comfortably alongside the menu, while the cocktail list cleverly incorporates ingredients that might otherwise have gone to waste. It is a subtle reflection of the restaurant's ethos and demonstrates that sustainability and flavour can work hand in hand.
I rarely order dessert, but on this occasion I'm very glad I did.
Celentano's Affogato was unlike any version I have encountered before. Rather than serving the traditional Italian classic, the kitchen has reimagined it into a beautifully deconstructed dessert of malted barley gelato, Bare Bones chocolate mousse and cold brew coffee.
It was a fitting finale. The bitterness of the coffee, the richness of the chocolate and the smoothness of the gelato came together beautifully, creating a dessert that felt indulgent without becoming overly sweet. It was clever, memorable and the perfect way to end the meal.
Relocating a restaurant often means trying to recreate what made the original so successful. Celentano's has taken a different approach. While the surroundings have changed, the philosophy remains exactly the same: exceptional ingredients, thoughtful cooking and warm hospitality.
Glasgow's restaurant scene has become increasingly competitive over the past few years, yet Celentano's continues to stand comfortably among the city's very best. It feels settled in its new home already, and if this first visit is anything to go by, the move to Arthouse marks not the end of one story, but the beginning of an even stronger one.
Long after I had left the Arthouse, I found myself thinking back to that meal. Not because of elaborate presentation or unnecessary theatrics, but because every dish had been cooked with confidence and purpose. There were certainly highlights, and those smoked cod doughnuts deserve all the praise they receive, but what impressed me most was the consistency. From the first slice of sourdough to the final spoonful of affogato, Celentano's delivered a dining experience that felt thoroughly deserving of its reputation.
