Boringdon Hall Hotel And Spa - A Harley-Davidson Adventure

There is a distinct, quiet magic in returning to the roads of your youth. Growing up in Plymouth, the landscapes of South Devon, where the rugged granite tors of Dartmoor give way to sweeping coastal horizons, were the backdrop to my early life. Returning decades later aboard a motorcycle adds an entirely new dimension to that nostalgia. The long, open miles through the West Country flow past with effortless rhythm, culminating in a stay at one of Devon’s most captivating historic estates: Boringdon Hall Hotel and Spa.

Dropping off the A38 at Bovey Tracey and climbing straight into the heart of Dartmoor sets up one of the finest motorcycle runs in the West Country, perfectly suited to a grand touring machine like the Road Glide Limited. 

Leaving Bovey Tracey, the road climbs steeply through dense tree cover before breaking out into the vast, open expanse at Haytor. Towering over the landscape, Haytor Rocks offer a dramatic opening salvo as the Twin-Cooled Milwaukee-Eight 114 engine rumbles past, the bike settling into a smooth rhythm on the sweeping ascents. From there, the route drops down into the iconic valley of Widecombe-in-the-Moor, threading through narrow, hedge-lined lanes where low-speed throttle control and smooth rear-braking keep the 400 kg machine balanced two-up through the tight bends.

Climbing back out of the valley past Wind Tor, the scenery opens up once more toward Dartmeet, where the East and West Dart rivers converge. The dip and rise through Dartmeet features steep gradients and sharp bends that require a confident line, giving way to a fast, flowing section over ancient stone bridges toward Two Bridges, home of the hairy hand ghost story. Turning south-west onto the high B3212 toward Princetown, the air thins and cools as you reach the highest settlement on the moor, passing the stark, historic silhouette of the now-redundant Dartmoor Prison.

Beyond Princetown, the road skirts south past the quiet waters of Burrator Reservoir and the imposing granite outcrop of Sheepstor, before rolling through Yelverton, where I learned to ride a pushbike as a child. Once the site of an old WW2 airfield known as RAF Harrowbeer, built in 1940, using millions of tons of rubble cleared from Plymouth following the 1941 Blitz. It served as an active Fighter Command station and provided air support during the D-Day landings.

Turning east across Cadover Bridge, where I played in the river as a child, the landscape takes on a wilder, raw character. The road winds over the open moorland, where Dartmoor ponies graze right along the tarmac edge, requiring absolute vigilance.

Passing through the china clay workings near Lee Moor, the high wilderness slowly transitions back into lush Devon countryside as you begin the final descent off the moor into Plympton and Boringdon Hall Hotel and Spa, bringing an incredible, immersive crossing of Dartmoor to a fittingly luxurious end, or for us, the beginning of our luxurious stay.

Pulling up the winding drive of Boringdon Hall, the contrast between our modern American touring machine and the manor’s stone facade was striking. Tucked away in Colebrook on the outskirts of Plymouth, Boringdon Hall is a 5-star, 16th-century Elizabethan manor house steeped in royal history. Once frequented by the likes of Sir Walter Raleigh and Queen Elizabeth I, the estate manages to wear its centuries of heritage with warmth rather than cold austerity.

Passing through the heavy timber doors brings an immediate sense of stepping back in time. The centrepiece of the hotel is the Great Hall, an awe-inspiring space featuring high vaulted ceilings, intricate plasterwork, dark wood panelling, and a soaring carved granite fireplace that, in the winter, crackles softly in the evening. It provides an unmatched atmosphere for post-ride relaxation, where you can sink into deep leather seating and enjoy a drink while reflecting on the road taken to get here.

Following a very easy and pleasant check-in, we were shown to our room, which was situated within Boringdon Hall’s dedicated Wellness Wing.

The Wellness Rooms and Wellness Suites are positioned directly adjacent to the Gaia Spa to offer seamless, direct access to the facilities; this area shifts away from the leaded windows and dark timber of the Elizabethan manor in favour of an airy, biophilic design centred on natural relaxation.

Access corridors feature living moss walls that function as a natural air filtration system, creating a fresh, calming environment immediately upon entry. The interior aesthetic incorporates light oak flooring, neutral earth tones, forest-green accents, and expansive floor-to-ceiling windows designed to maximise natural light. Depending on their position, the rooms look out over either the historic stone courtyard or the estate's re-wilding meadowland.

The standard Wellness Rooms like ours feature generous open-plan layouts centred around Hypnos super-king beds. They are outfitted with freestanding bathtubs, inside the bedroom area, private balconies or patios, and dedicated yoga equipment including cork mats, blocks, and timers for personal practice. En-suite bathrooms include large rainfall showers stocked with an expanded range of organic, plant-based GAIA Skincare products, which really are a must-have. 

For guests seeking additional luxury, the wing features two flagship suites named Apollo and Hypnos. These expansive suites offer dedicated lounge areas, complete with ambient fireplaces, as well as private decked balconies featuring heated outdoor spa baths that overlook the surrounding Devon countryside. Guests staying in the suites also enjoy extra amenities, including a complimentary mini-bar, curated mindfulness reading materials, and a GAIA travel skincare set.

All stays in the Wellness Wing include full access to the Gaia Spa facilities, including the indoor/outdoor hydrotherapy pool and thermal heat suites, alongside complimentary fitness and yoga classes in the private studio and discounts on pre-booked spa treatments. 

The Gaia Spa Boringdon is a multi-award-winning, purpose-built wellness sanctuary seamlessly attached to the historic estate. Spanning over two floors, the spa draws its design inspiration from Mother Nature, or Gaia, focusing on natural materials, expansive glass walls, and holistic wellness to create a completely serene environment. After a full day spent riding, the Gaia Spa serves as a welcoming sanctuary, the purest form of decompression. 

At the core of the spa is its impressive hydrotherapy area, which centres around a large indoor swimming pool that flows effortlessly out into an outdoor hydrotherapy infinity pool. Floating in the warm water while taking in views of the countryside and re-wilding meadows provides a deeply relaxing experience, especially after a long ride across Dartmoor.

The heat experience is equally comprehensive, offering a journey through various microclimates designed to soothe muscles and clear the senses. Guests can explore a Laconium heat room, traditional Finnish sauna, herbal sauna, crystal steam room, and salt steam room. To complement the heat, the spa features a deep relaxation room, outdoor sun terraces, and experiential showers with varying temperatures and ambient lighting.

The treatment menu centres around the hotel's proprietary GAIA Skincare brand, which uses natural, plant-based ingredients and essential oils. Guests can choose from an extensive range of therapies, including deep tissue massages, holistic hot stone treatments, revitalising facials, and specialised rituals designed to reduce stress and restore balance.

Beyond the aquatic and treatment facilities, the spa incorporates a state-of-the-art gym equipped with modern cardiovascular and resistance machinery, alongside a dedicated yoga and Pilates studio. After a swim or treatment, guests can unwind at the Spatisserie, an airy, light-filled dining space located on the upper floor where, in the morning, we had our breakfast on the terrace, soaking up the views over the grounds. 

A great road trip deserves an exceptional reward at the end of the day, and the dining experience at Boringdon Hall certainly fulfils that brief.

The property is widely recognised as a premier gastronomic destination in the South West, anchored by its flagship restaurant, Àclèaf. Holding a Michelin star and four AA Rosettes, Head Chef Scott Paton presents a visually stunning, produce-driven menu that celebrates the best of local Devonian ingredients.

Àclèaf presents a refined, produce-driven menu that champions British seasonal gastronomy with a strong emphasis on South West suppliers. Rather than an overly rigid or overwhelming tasting menu, the dining experience centres on a four-course format with optional enhancements, giving guests distinct choices for each stage while maintaining the precision and artistry of high-end culinary craft.

The kitchen is renowned for its clean, balanced flavour combinations, inventive sauces, and visually striking presentation. Accompanying the food is a wine pairing program managed by expert sommeliers who select vintages to complement each course, alongside an extensive wine cellar featuring both old-world classics and boutique labels.

Positioned on a gallery looking down over the manor’s Great Hall, the restaurant offers an intimate, atmospheric setting where guests can dine while taking in the Elizabethan architecture and stone features below.

From the first amuse-bouche to the final delicate dessert, the meal was a masterclass in balance, flavour combination, and technical precision. Every dish arrived like a work of art, paired flawlessly with fine wines chosen to enhance the local flavours. Equal to the exceptional cuisine was the front-of-house hospitality. The staff operated with a natural, effortless warmth, attentive to every nuance, deeply knowledgeable about the menu, and entirely devoid of pretension. It made for a relaxed, memorable evening where we felt truly looked after.

Returning home to Plymouth after years away can be a reflective experience, but experiencing it through the lens of a luxury motorcycle journey elevated it into something extraordinary. Boringdon Hall Hotel and Spa achieves a rare equilibrium: it preserves the rich, dramatic heritage of an Elizabethan estate while delivering cutting-edge modern luxury, Michelin-starred cuisine, and world-class wellness facilities.

For motorcycle enthusiasts, touring couples, or anyone seeking a refined escape in the South West, Boringdon Hall represents the pinnacle of Devonian hospitality. It stands as a magnificent haven where history, luxury, and the open road come together seamlessly.